Difficulty
Moderate
Steps
19
Time Required
Suggest a time??
Sections
4
- Battery
- 1 step
- Lower Case
- 12 steps
- Bottom Shield
- 2 steps
- DC-In Board
- 4 steps
Flags
0
BackiBook G4 14" 1.42 GHz
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Introduction
What you need
Step 1
Battery
- Use a coin to rotate the battery locking screw 90 degrees clockwise.
- Lift the battery out of the computer.
Use a coin to rotate the battery locking screw 90 degrees clockwise.
Lift the battery out of the computer.
1024
Step 2
Lower Case
- Close the display and flip the computer over.
- Remove the three hex screws using a T8 Torx screwdriver.
- The shorter screw is in the center.
Close the display and flip the computer over.
Remove the three hex screws using a T8 Torx screwdriver.
The shorter screw is in the center.
Step 3
- Use a spudger or small flathead screwdriver to remove the three rubber feet from the lower case.
Use a spudger or small flathead screwdriver to remove the three rubber feet from the lower case.
Step 4
- Remove the three newly-revealed Phillips screws.
- One screw is underneath each bumper (three total).
Remove the three newly-revealed Phillips screws.
One screw is underneath each bumper (three total).
Step 5
- Use a spudger or small flathead screwdriver to pry up the three metal rings that housed the rubber bumpers.
Use a spudger or small flathead screwdriver to pry up the three metal rings that housed the rubber bumpers.
Step 6
- Remove the two Phillips screws on either side of the battery contacts.
Remove the two Phillips screws on either side of the battery contacts.
Step 7
- Breathe deeply. Trying times are ahead, but we promise the lower case does come off.
- Push in the thin rims of the lower case surrounding the battery compartment, bending them past the tabs, and then lift up to free that corner of the lower case.
Breathe deeply. Trying times are ahead, but we promise the lower case does come off.
Push in the thin rims of the lower case surrounding the battery compartment, bending them past the tabs, and then lift up to free that corner of the lower case.
Step 8
- There is a slot on the wall of the battery compartment that locks the lower case in place. Use a small flathead screwdriver to pry out the slot’s lower rim and pull up on the lower case to free the slot from the tabs holding it.
There is a slot on the wall of the battery compartment that locks the lower case in place. Use a small flathead screwdriver to pry out the slot’s lower rim and pull up on the lower case to free the slot from the tabs holding it.
Step 9
- Run a spudger along the seam between the lower case and upper case on the front of the computer to free the tabs locking the lower case. Pull up on the lower case and continue to use the spudger as necessary until you hear three distinct clicks.
Run a spudger along the seam between the lower case and upper case on the front of the computer to free the tabs locking the lower case. Pull up on the lower case and continue to use the spudger as necessary until you hear three distinct clicks.
Step 10
- Continue to run the spudger around the front, right corner. There are two tabs on the port side of the computer, one near the front corner and one near the sound-out port.
Continue to run the spudger around the front, right corner. There are two tabs on the port side of the computer, one near the front corner and one near the sound-out port.
Step 11
- There are three tabs over the optical drive that must be released before the lower case can come off. Slide the spudger into the lower case above the optical drive and run it toward the back of the computer until you hear three distinct clicks.
There are three tabs over the optical drive that must be released before the lower case can come off. Slide the spudger into the lower case above the optical drive and run it toward the back of the computer until you hear three distinct clicks.
Step 12
- The front and sides of the lower case are now free.
- Turn the computer so that the back is facing you and pull the lower case up and toward you until the back tabs pop free.
- It may be helpful to jiggle the case up and down.
The front and sides of the lower case are now free.
Turn the computer so that the back is facing you and pull the lower case up and toward you until the back tabs pop free.
It may be helpful to jiggle the case up and down.
Step 13
- Remove the small greasy springs with white plastic caps from either side of the battery contacts.
Remove the small greasy springs with white plastic caps from either side of the battery contacts.
Step 14
Bottom Shield
- Remove the following 10 screws from the bottom shield:
- Six 3 mm Phillips
- Three 7.5 mm Phillips
- One 14 mm Phillips
Remove the following 10 screws from the bottom shield:
Six 3 mm Phillips
Three 7.5 mm Phillips
One 14 mm Phillips
Step 15
- Lift the bottom shield off.
Lift the bottom shield off.
Step 16
DC-In Board
- Remove the single Phillips screw securing the DC-In board.
Remove the single Phillips screw securing the DC-In board.
Step 17
- Angle the DC-In board out of its compartment.
- You may need to remove tape that secures the DC-In board cable to the case.
Angle the DC-In board out of its compartment.
You may need to remove tape that secures the DC-In board cable to the case.
Step 18
- Lift the DC-In cable from the adhesive attaching it to the logic board.
Lift the DC-In cable from the adhesive attaching it to the logic board.
Step 19
- Disconnect the DC-In cable from the logic board.
- Wiggling the connector parallel to the surface of the logic board while applying slight tension may aid in removal.
Disconnect the DC-In cable from the logic board.
Wiggling the connector parallel to the surface of the logic board while applying slight tension may aid in removal.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
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Attached Documents
- iBook-G4-14"-Screw-Guide.pdf
- PDF - 721.28 kb
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iBook-G4-14"-Screw-Guide.pdf
PDF - 721.28 kb
Author
with 5 other contributors
Walter Galan
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Keith - Feb 8, 2010
Reply
On my older iBook G4 the screws where a 5/64 allen head 1.1ghz model
Baye - Oct 2, 2011
Reply
it was my first time opening up a laptop and I did not have any problem this tutorial is very helpful because it shows you the process step by step something hard to find nowadays
datarez - Jan 9, 2012
Reply
This was a really easy guide thanks. I had ordered a replacement DC in board but found after opening I could have probably repaired the existing one. It had been tripped over a few too many times. I think a bit of re-soldering on the connector where the tape covers in step 17 may have fixed mine. Now I have a backup at least.
Vincent Gerris - Apr 8, 2017
Reply
Hi,
Does anyone happen to know the values of the L2 and L3 parts on this DC-in board?
I am looking to reuse them but I cannot find any specs.
Thank you and regards,
Vincent