Ipad 7 Headphone Jack Replacement Repair Guide

Difficulty

Difficult

Steps

Time Required

                          1 - 2 hours

Sections

iOpener Heating
4 steps
Front Panel
28 steps
LCD
9 steps
Front Panel Assembly Removal
7 steps
Upper Component Bracket Removal
3 steps
Front Camera
3 steps
Headphone Jack
5 steps

Flags

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Introduction

Note: this guide is for the LTE version only. For the Wi-Fi version, click here.

Be very careful when you isolate the battery using a battery blocker. The battery contacts are easily damaged, resulting in irreversible damage. If you choose to complete the guide without isolating the battery, avoid using metal tools except when completely necessary (like when removing screws) to prevent shorting the battery and damaging sensitive circuit components.

Some photos in this guide are from a different model and may contain slight visual discrepancies, but they won’t affect the guide procedure.

What you need

Step 1

              iOpener Heating

We recommend that you clean your microwave before proceeding, as any nasty gunk on the bottom may end up stuck to the iOpener.
Place the iOpener in the center of the microwave.
For carousel microwaves: Make sure the plate spins freely. If your iOpener gets stuck, it may overheat and burn.

We recommend that you clean your microwave before proceeding, as any nasty gunk on the bottom may end up stuck to the iOpener.

Place the iOpener in the center of the microwave.

For carousel microwaves: Make sure the plate spins freely. If your iOpener gets stuck, it may overheat and burn.

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Step 2

Heat the iOpener for thirty seconds.
Throughout the repair procedure, as the iOpener cools, reheat it in the microwave for an additional thirty seconds at a time.
Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair. Overheating may cause the iOpener to burst.
Never touch the iOpener if it appears swollen.
If the iOpener is still too hot in the middle to touch, continue using it while waiting for it to cool down some more before reheating. A properly heated iOpener should stay warm for up to 10 minutes.

Heat the iOpener for thirty seconds.

Throughout the repair procedure, as the iOpener cools, reheat it in the microwave for an additional thirty seconds at a time.

Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair. Overheating may cause the iOpener to burst.

Never touch the iOpener if it appears swollen.

If the iOpener is still too hot in the middle to touch, continue using it while waiting for it to cool down some more before reheating. A properly heated iOpener should stay warm for up to 10 minutes.

Step 3

Remove the iOpener from the microwave, holding it by one of the two flat ends to avoid the hot center.
The iOpener will be very hot, so be careful when handling it. Use an oven mitt if necessary.

Remove the iOpener from the microwave, holding it by one of the two flat ends to avoid the hot center.

The iOpener will be very hot, so be careful when handling it. Use an oven mitt if necessary.

Step 4

              Alternate iOpener heating method

If you don’t have a microwave, follow this step to heat your iOpener in boiling water.
Fill a pot or pan with enough water to fully submerge an iOpener.
Heat the water to a boil. Turn off the heat.
Place an iOpener into the hot water for 2-3 minutes. Make sure the iOpener is fully submerged in the water.
Use tongs to extract the heated iOpener from the hot water.
Thoroughly dry the iOpener with a towel.
The iOpener will be very hot, so be careful to hold it only by the end tabs.
Your iOpener is ready for use! If you need to reheat the iOpener, heat the water to a boil, turn off the heat, and place the iOpener in the water for 2-3 minutes.

If you don’t have a microwave, follow this step to heat your iOpener in boiling water.

Fill a pot or pan with enough water to fully submerge an iOpener.

Heat the water to a boil. Turn off the heat.

Place an iOpener into the hot water for 2-3 minutes. Make sure the iOpener is fully submerged in the water.

Use tongs to extract the heated iOpener from the hot water.

Thoroughly dry the iOpener with a towel.

The iOpener will be very hot, so be careful to hold it only by the end tabs.

Your iOpener is ready for use! If you need to reheat the iOpener, heat the water to a boil, turn off the heat, and place the iOpener in the water for 2-3 minutes.

Step 5

              Front Panel

If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.
Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad’s display until the whole face is covered.
This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.
Do your best to follow the rest of the guide as described. However, once the glass is broken, it will likely continue to crack as you work, and you may need to use a metal prying tool to scoop the glass out.
Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes, and be careful not to damage the LCD screen.

If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.

Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad’s display until the whole face is covered.

This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.

Do your best to follow the rest of the guide as described. However, once the glass is broken, it will likely continue to crack as you work, and you may need to use a metal prying tool to scoop the glass out.

Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes, and be careful not to damage the LCD screen.

Step 6

Handling it by the tag, place the heated iOpener on the side of the iPad to the left of the home button assembly.
Let the iOpener sit for at least a minute to soften the adhesive beneath the glass.

Handling it by the tag, place the heated iOpener on the side of the iPad to the left of the home button assembly.

Let the iOpener sit for at least a minute to soften the adhesive beneath the glass.

Step 7

While the iPad looks uniform from the outside, there are delicate components under the front glass. To avoid damage, only heat and pry in the areas described in each step.
As you follow the directions, take special care to avoid prying in the following areas:
Front-facing camera
Antennas
Display cables

While the iPad looks uniform from the outside, there are delicate components under the front glass. To avoid damage, only heat and pry in the areas described in each step.

As you follow the directions, take special care to avoid prying in the following areas:

Front-facing camera

Antennas

Display cables

Step 8

Carefully place a suction cup halfway up the heated side.
Be sure the cup is completely flat on the screen to get a tight seal.
While holding the iPad down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the front panel glass from from the rear case.
If your iPad’s screen is badly cracked, covering it with a smooth layer of clear packing tape may help the suction cup adhere. Alternatively, use a strong piece of tape (such as duct tape) and fold it into a handle.

Carefully place a suction cup halfway up the heated side.

Be sure the cup is completely flat on the screen to get a tight seal.

While holding the iPad down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the front panel glass from from the rear case.

If your iPad’s screen is badly cracked, covering it with a smooth layer of clear packing tape may help the suction cup adhere. Alternatively, use a strong piece of tape (such as duct tape) and fold it into a handle.

Step 9

Place an opening pick in the gap opened by the suction cup.
Don’t insert the opening pick any deeper than the black bezel on the side of the display. Inserting the pick too far may damage the LCD.
Pull the suction cup’s plastic nub to release the vacuum seal and remove the suction cup from the display assembly.

Place an opening pick in the gap opened by the suction cup.

Don’t insert the opening pick any deeper than the black bezel on the side of the display. Inserting the pick too far may damage the LCD.

Pull the suction cup’s plastic nub to release the vacuum seal and remove the suction cup from the display assembly.

Step 10

Reheat and replace the iOpener.
Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair procedure. Always wait at least ten minutes before reheating the iOpener.

Reheat and replace the iOpener.

Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair procedure. Always wait at least ten minutes before reheating the iOpener.

Step 11

Place a second opening pick alongside the first and slide the pick down along the edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go.

Place a second opening pick alongside the first and slide the pick down along the edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go.

Step 12

Continue moving the opening pick down the side of the display to release the adhesive.
If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, “roll” the pick along the side of the iPad, continuing to release the adhesive.

Continue moving the opening pick down the side of the display to release the adhesive.

If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, “roll” the pick along the side of the iPad, continuing to release the adhesive.

Step 13

Take the first pick you inserted and slide it up toward the top corner of the iPad.
If you can see the tip of the opening pick through the front glass, don’t panic—just pull the pick out just a little bit. Most likely, everything will be fine, but try to avoid this as it may deposit adhesive on the front of the LCD that is difficult to clean off.

Take the first pick you inserted and slide it up toward the top corner of the iPad.

If you can see the tip of the opening pick through the front glass, don’t panic—just pull the pick out just a little bit. Most likely, everything will be fine, but try to avoid this as it may deposit adhesive on the front of the LCD that is difficult to clean off.

Step 14

Reheat the iOpener and place it on the top edge of the iPad, over the front-facing camera.
Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair procedure. Wait at least ten minutes before reheating the iOpener.
If you have a flexible iOpener, you can bend it to heat both the upper left corner and the upper edge at the same time.

Reheat the iOpener and place it on the top edge of the iPad, over the front-facing camera.

Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair procedure. Wait at least ten minutes before reheating the iOpener.

If you have a flexible iOpener, you can bend it to heat both the upper left corner and the upper edge at the same time.

Step 15

Slide the opening pick around the top left corner of the iPad to separate the adhesive.

Slide the opening pick around the top left corner of the iPad to separate the adhesive.

Step 16

Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the iPad, stopping just before you reach the camera.
The third image shows where the front-facing camera and housing are in the iPad.
Avoid sliding the opening pick over the front facing camera, as you may smear adhesive onto the lens or damage the camera. The following steps will detail how to best avoid disturbing the front facing camera.

Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the iPad, stopping just before you reach the camera.

The third image shows where the front-facing camera and housing are in the iPad.

Avoid sliding the opening pick over the front facing camera, as you may smear adhesive onto the lens or damage the camera. The following steps will detail how to best avoid disturbing the front facing camera.

Step 17

Pull the pick out slightly, and slide the very tip gently along the top of the front-facing camera section of the top edge.

Pull the pick out slightly, and slide the very tip gently along the top of the front-facing camera section of the top edge.

Step 18

Leave the opening pick in the iPad slightly past the front-facing camera.
Take a second pick and insert it to the left of the camera, and then slide it to the corner of the iPad to finish cutting the adhesive on that edge.

Leave the opening pick in the iPad slightly past the front-facing camera.

Take a second pick and insert it to the left of the camera, and then slide it to the corner of the iPad to finish cutting the adhesive on that edge.

Step 19

Insert the previous pick deeper into the iPad and slide it away from the camera toward the corner.

Insert the previous pick deeper into the iPad and slide it away from the camera toward the corner.

Step 20

Leave the three picks in the corners of the iPad to prevent re-adhering of the front panel adhesive.
Reheat the iOpener and place it on the remaining side of the iPad—along the volume and lock buttons.

Leave the three picks in the corners of the iPad to prevent re-adhering of the front panel adhesive.

Reheat the iOpener and place it on the remaining side of the iPad—along the volume and lock buttons.

Step 21

Slide the opening pick around the top right corner of the iPad, releasing the adhesive there.
Leave this pick in place to keep the adhesive from re-sealing itself, and grab a new pick for the next step.

Slide the opening pick around the top right corner of the iPad, releasing the adhesive there.

Leave this pick in place to keep the adhesive from re-sealing itself, and grab a new pick for the next step.

Step 22

Insert a new opening pick and slide it to the middle of the right edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go.
The display cables are located approximately halfway from the bottom of the iPad. Stop sliding the pick when you get ~4.5" from the bottom of the iPad.

Insert a new opening pick and slide it to the middle of the right edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go.

The display cables are located approximately halfway from the bottom of the iPad. Stop sliding the pick when you get ~4.5" from the bottom of the iPad.

Step 23

Leave the opening picks in place, and set the reheated iOpener on the home button end of the iPad.

Leave the opening picks in place, and set the reheated iOpener on the home button end of the iPad.

Step 24

Slide the lower left pick to the lower left corner to cut the adhesive on that corner.
Leave the pick at the corner. Do not pry any farther, and do not remove the pick from the iPad.
The third image shows the two antennas and the home button cavity in the lower case of the iPad.
The following steps will direct you where to pry to avoid damage to these components. Only apply heat and pry where directed.

Slide the lower left pick to the lower left corner to cut the adhesive on that corner.

Leave the pick at the corner. Do not pry any farther, and do not remove the pick from the iPad.

The third image shows the two antennas and the home button cavity in the lower case of the iPad.

The following steps will direct you where to pry to avoid damage to these components. Only apply heat and pry where directed.

Step 25

Leave the pick from the last step in place to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.
With a new pick, slice gently over the left-hand antenna, stopping before the home button.
Only slide the pick from the outer edge toward the center of the iPad. Do not move the pick back toward the outer edge, as moving in this direction may damage the antenna.
If you need to slide the pick over the lower section more than once, remove it and re-insert at the outer edge, and slide inwards.
Leave the pick in place before moving on.

Leave the pick from the last step in place to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

With a new pick, slice gently over the left-hand antenna, stopping before the home button.

Only slide the pick from the outer edge toward the center of the iPad. Do not move the pick back toward the outer edge, as moving in this direction may damage the antenna.

If you need to slide the pick over the lower section more than once, remove it and re-insert at the outer edge, and slide inwards.

Leave the pick in place before moving on.

Step 26

Take a new pick and slip it in to the right of the previous pick.
Slide across the home button and right-hand antenna using only the very tip to remove the adhesive.

Take a new pick and slip it in to the right of the previous pick.

Slide across the home button and right-hand antenna using only the very tip to remove the adhesive.

Step 27

With the adhesive loosened, you can now insert the pick near the right-hand corner. Slide the pick to the left, and stop just short of the Home button.
Just like with the left antenna, only slide from the outer edge toward the center. Reversing this direction may damage the antenna.

With the adhesive loosened, you can now insert the pick near the right-hand corner. Slide the pick to the left, and stop just short of the Home button.

Just like with the left antenna, only slide from the outer edge toward the center. Reversing this direction may damage the antenna.

Step 28

Reheat and reapply the iOpener to the volume control side of the iPad.

Reheat and reapply the iOpener to the volume control side of the iPad.

Step 29

Be very careful with this step. Take your time and ensure the adhesive is hot and soft, and that you’ve been through all of the adhesive with an opening pick. Don’t be afraid to stop and reheat.
On the side of the iPad opposite the volume controls, you should have a pick lodged into each corner. Twist the picks to lift the glass slightly, separating the last of the adhesive along the display cable edge.
If you encounter a significant amount of resistance, leave the picks in place, reheat, and reapply the iOpener to the problem areas.

Be very careful with this step. Take your time and ensure the adhesive is hot and soft, and that you’ve been through all of the adhesive with an opening pick. Don’t be afraid to stop and reheat.

On the side of the iPad opposite the volume controls, you should have a pick lodged into each corner. Twist the picks to lift the glass slightly, separating the last of the adhesive along the display cable edge.

If you encounter a significant amount of resistance, leave the picks in place, reheat, and reapply the iOpener to the problem areas.

Step 30

Lift slowly and gently to further detach the adhesive along the display cable edge.

Lift slowly and gently to further detach the adhesive along the display cable edge.

Step 31

While supporting the front panel glass, use an opening pick to cut the last of the adhesive.
Be very careful not to cut or damage any of the display cables.

While supporting the front panel glass, use an opening pick to cut the last of the adhesive.

Be very careful not to cut or damage any of the display cables.

Step 32

Once all of the adhesive has been separated, open the glass panel like a page in a book and rest it on your workspace.
During reassembly, clean the remains of the adhesive from the case (and the front glass if you are re-using it) with isopropyl alcohol, and replace the adhesive using our display adhesive application guide and pre-cut adhesive strips.
It’s easy to pinch a flex cable between the front glass and the iPad’s frame during reassembly. Be mindful of the flex cables and make sure they gently fold and tuck under the frame. If the folds in a flex cable are pressed completely flat, it may be damaged beyond repair.

Once all of the adhesive has been separated, open the glass panel like a page in a book and rest it on your workspace.

During reassembly, clean the remains of the adhesive from the case (and the front glass if you are re-using it) with isopropyl alcohol, and replace the adhesive using our display adhesive application guide and pre-cut adhesive strips.

It’s easy to pinch a flex cable between the front glass and the iPad’s frame during reassembly. Be mindful of the flex cables and make sure they gently fold and tuck under the frame. If the folds in a flex cable are pressed completely flat, it may be damaged beyond repair.

Step 33

              Remove the LCD

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the four 4.3 mm-long screws securing the LCD to the frame.
Remove any tape obscuring the LCD screws.
Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your device.

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the four 4.3 mm-long screws securing the LCD to the frame.

Remove any tape obscuring the LCD screws.

Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your device.

Step 34

              Flip the LCD over

Don’t attempt to fully remove the LCD during this step, as it’s still connected by several cables at the home button end.
Only lift the LCD from the front-facing camera end.
Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the LCD out of its recess just enough to grab it with your fingers.
Flip the iPad LCD like a page in a book, lifting near the camera and turning it over the home button end of the rear case.
Lay the LCD down onto a clean, soft, lint-free surface to allow access to the display cables.

Don’t attempt to fully remove the LCD during this step, as it’s still connected by several cables at the home button end.

Only lift the LCD from the front-facing camera end.

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the LCD out of its recess just enough to grab it with your fingers.

Flip the iPad LCD like a page in a book, lifting near the camera and turning it over the home button end of the rear case.

Lay the LCD down onto a clean, soft, lint-free surface to allow access to the display cables.

Step 35

              Disconnect the battery

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the single 2.3 mm-long screw securing the battery connector to the logic board.

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the single 2.3 mm-long screw securing the battery connector to the logic board.

Step 36

              Battery connector information

These photos show what the battery connector looks like underneath the logic board. Use these photos as a reference while you safely disconnect the battery.
Notice that the battery connector has cantilever springs on the logic board that press against the battery contact pads. Since both the logic board and battery are glued down, you’ll need to slide something thin and flexible between the contact points to disconnect the battery.

These photos show what the battery connector looks like underneath the logic board. Use these photos as a reference while you safely disconnect the battery.

Notice that the battery connector has cantilever springs on the logic board that press against the battery contact pads. Since both the logic board and battery are glued down, you’ll need to slide something thin and flexible between the contact points to disconnect the battery.

Step 37

              Disconnect the battery

Be careful when you isolate the battery using a battery blocker. The battery contacts are easily bent or broken, resulting in irreversible damage.
Ensure that the iFixit logo on the battery blocker is facing up.
Slide the battery blocker underneath the logic board’s battery connector at a 35 degree angle.
Don’t push the battery blocker underneath the connector with excessive force. If you’re having trouble fitting the battery blocker underneath the logic board, you can try using a playing card to disconnect the battery instead.
The battery blocker or playing card ideally should slide under the logic board without encountering any blockages. After insertion, it should rest at about a 15 degree angle.
Leave the battery blocker in place as you work.

Be careful when you isolate the battery using a battery blocker. The battery contacts are easily bent or broken, resulting in irreversible damage.

Ensure that the iFixit logo on the battery blocker is facing up.

Slide the battery blocker underneath the logic board’s battery connector at a 35 degree angle.

Don’t push the battery blocker underneath the connector with excessive force. If you’re having trouble fitting the battery blocker underneath the logic board, you can try using a playing card to disconnect the battery instead.

The battery blocker or playing card ideally should slide under the logic board without encountering any blockages. After insertion, it should rest at about a 15 degree angle.

Leave the battery blocker in place as you work.

Step 38

              Remove the display cable bracket

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three 1.4 mm-long screws securing the display cable bracket.

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three 1.4 mm-long screws securing the display cable bracket.

Step 39

Remove the display cable bracket.

Remove the display cable bracket.

Step 40

              Disconnect the LCD

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the LCD cable by lifting straight up on the press connector.
To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the LCD cable by lifting straight up on the press connector.

To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.

Step 41

Remove the LCD completely and rest it face down on a clean, soft, lint-free surface.

Remove the LCD completely and rest it face down on a clean, soft, lint-free surface.

Step 42

              Disconnect the home button

Use a pair of tweezers to peel off the tape covering the home button cable ZIF connector.

Use a pair of tweezers to peel off the tape covering the home button cable ZIF connector.

Step 43

Use the tip of a spudger, an opening tool, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the home button cable ZIF connector.

Use the tip of a spudger, an opening tool, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the home button cable ZIF connector.

Step 44

Use a pair of tweezers to carefully pull the home button ribbon cable straight out of the ZIF connector.

Use a pair of tweezers to carefully pull the home button ribbon cable straight out of the ZIF connector.

Step 45

              Disconnect the display cables

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the two digitizer cables by lifting straight up on the press connectors.
To avoid damaging your iPad, pry only on the connectors themselves, not on the socket on the logic board.

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the two digitizer cables by lifting straight up on the press connectors.

To avoid damaging your iPad, pry only on the connectors themselves, not on the socket on the logic board.

Step 46

              Remove the vibration isolator

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up the vibration isolator below the SIM card reader.
Take care not to puncture or tear the home button ribbon cable.
Remove the vibration isolator.

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up the vibration isolator below the SIM card reader.

Take care not to puncture or tear the home button ribbon cable.

Remove the vibration isolator.

Step 47

Use a pair of tweezers to peel the home button cable away from the rear case.
The cable is secured with some light adhesive.

Use a pair of tweezers to peel the home button cable away from the rear case.

The cable is secured with some light adhesive.

Step 48

              Remove the front panel assembly

Remove the front panel assembly.
Use an opening pick to cut away any residual adhesive that may still be connecting the front panel assembly to the frame.
If you experience “ghost” or “phantom” touch input issues with your new display, this can be resolved by adding a layer of very thin insulating tape, such as Kapton (polyimide) tape, to the highlighted areas on the back of the panel. iFixit replacement digitizers come with the proper insulation and should not require the addition of any tape.
Without the proper insulation, these areas of the digitizer can ground out against other components, causing touch input malfunction.
The insulation is not visible to the naked eye, and is different from the foam dust barrier strips found on many iPads.
During reassembly, before installing a display, remove any remaining adhesive from the iPad, and clean the glued areas with high concentration isopropyl alcohol (90% or greater) and a lint-free cloth. This helps prep the iPad for fresh adhesive and ensures that it will bond properly.
Test your iPad’s functions and install pre-cut adhesive strips to the back of the display using our display adhesive application guide before sealing it up.

Remove the front panel assembly.

Use an opening pick to cut away any residual adhesive that may still be connecting the front panel assembly to the frame.

If you experience “ghost” or “phantom” touch input issues with your new display, this can be resolved by adding a layer of very thin insulating tape, such as Kapton (polyimide) tape, to the highlighted areas on the back of the panel. iFixit replacement digitizers come with the proper insulation and should not require the addition of any tape.

Without the proper insulation, these areas of the digitizer can ground out against other components, causing touch input malfunction.

The insulation is not visible to the naked eye, and is different from the foam dust barrier strips found on many iPads.

During reassembly, before installing a display, remove any remaining adhesive from the iPad, and clean the glued areas with high concentration isopropyl alcohol (90% or greater) and a lint-free cloth. This helps prep the iPad for fresh adhesive and ensures that it will bond properly.

Test your iPad’s functions and install pre-cut adhesive strips to the back of the display using our display adhesive application guide before sealing it up.

Step 49

              Remove the upper component bracket

Carefully peel the LCD buffer tape up off of the upper component bracket.

Carefully peel the LCD buffer tape up off of the upper component bracket.

Step 50

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the five screws securing the upper component bracket.
Three 1.4 mm-long screws
Two 1.9 mm-long screws

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the five screws securing the upper component bracket.

Three 1.4 mm-long screws

Two 1.9 mm-long screws

Step 51

Use the pointed end of a spudger to lift up the upper component bracket until you can grip it with your fingers.
Remove the upper component bracket.
You may need to peel the upper component bracket off of some tape securing it to the logic board.

Use the pointed end of a spudger to lift up the upper component bracket until you can grip it with your fingers.

Remove the upper component bracket.

You may need to peel the upper component bracket off of some tape securing it to the logic board.

Step 52

              Disconnect the front camera

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the front camera cable by lifting straight up on the press connector.

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the front camera cable by lifting straight up on the press connector.

Step 53

              Remove the front camera

Use a spudger to lift the front camera out of its recess until you can grip it with your fingers.
Use the spudger to pull the adhesive foam pad away from the front camera.

Use a spudger to lift the front camera out of its recess until you can grip it with your fingers.

Use the spudger to pull the adhesive foam pad away from the front camera.

Step 54

Use a pair of tweezers to grip the front camera and rotate it to thread the cable through its slot in the rear case.
Remove the front camera.

Use a pair of tweezers to grip the front camera and rotate it to thread the cable through its slot in the rear case.

Remove the front camera.

Step 55

              Disconnect the headphone jack

Use the flat end of the spudger to disconnect the headphone jack by lifting straight up on the press connector.

Use the flat end of the spudger to disconnect the headphone jack by lifting straight up on the press connector.

Step 56

Use a pair of tweezers to peel the headphone jack cable up from the logic board.

Use a pair of tweezers to peel the headphone jack cable up from the logic board.

Step 57

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the 4.3 mm-long screw securing the headphone jack from the rear case.

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the 4.3 mm-long screw securing the headphone jack from the rear case.

Step 58

Use the flat end of a spudger to peel the headphone jack up from the rear case.

Use the flat end of a spudger to peel the headphone jack up from the rear case.

Step 59

              Remove the headphone jack

Use a pair of tweezers to pull the headphone jack out of its enclosure to remove it.

Use a pair of tweezers to pull the headphone jack out of its enclosure to remove it.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our iPad 7 Answers community for help.

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                    Robert Boyd

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Introduction#

What you need#

Introduction

What you need