Ipad 8 Rear Camera Replacement Repair Guide

Difficulty

Difficult

Steps

Time Required

                          1 - 2 hours

Sections

Opening Procedure
24 steps
LCD
9 steps
Front Panel Assembly Removal
7 steps
Upper Component Bracket Removal
2 steps
Rear Camera
3 steps

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Introduction

Note: this guide is for the Wi-Fi version only. For the LTE version, click here.

For your safety, discharge the battery below 25% before disassembling your iPad. This reduces the risk of fire if the battery is accidentally damaged during the repair. If your battery is swollen, take appropriate precautions.

Be very careful when you isolate the battery using a battery blocker. The battery contacts are easily bent or broken, resulting in irreversible damage. If you choose to complete the guide without isolating the battery, avoid using metal tools except when completely necessary (like when removing screws) to prevent shorting the battery and damaging sensitive circuit components.

Some photos in this guide are from a different model and may contain slight visual discrepancies, but they won’t affect the guide procedure.

What you need

Step 1

              Heat the left edge

Heat an iOpener and apply it to the left edge of the device for two minutes.

Heat an iOpener and apply it to the left edge of the device for two minutes.

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Step 2

              Screen removal information

While you’re waiting for the adhesive to loosen, note the following areas that are sensitive to prying:
Front camera
Antennas
Display cables

While you’re waiting for the adhesive to loosen, note the following areas that are sensitive to prying:

Front camera

Antennas

Display cables

Step 3

              Insert an opening pick

If your display is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.
Once the screen is warm to touch, apply a suction handle to the left edge of the screen and as close to the edge as possible.
Lift the screen with the suction handle to create a small gap between the digitizer and the frame.
Insert an opening pick into the gap between the digitizer and the frame.

If your display is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.

Once the screen is warm to touch, apply a suction handle to the left edge of the screen and as close to the edge as possible.

Lift the screen with the suction handle to create a small gap between the digitizer and the frame.

Insert an opening pick into the gap between the digitizer and the frame.

Step 4

              Separate the left adhesive

Insert a second opening pick into the gap you just created.
Slide the pick toward the bottom-left corner of the device to separate the adhesive.
Leave the pick in the bottom-left corner to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.
Don’t worry if you can see the opening pick through the digitizer—just pull the pick out. The LCD screen shouldn’t be damaged, but you risk leaving behind hard-to-clean adhesive.

Insert a second opening pick into the gap you just created.

Slide the pick toward the bottom-left corner of the device to separate the adhesive.

Leave the pick in the bottom-left corner to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

Don’t worry if you can see the opening pick through the digitizer—just pull the pick out. The LCD screen shouldn’t be damaged, but you risk leaving behind hard-to-clean adhesive.

Step 5

If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, “roll” the pick along the side of the iPad to continue separating the adhesive.

If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, “roll” the pick along the side of the iPad to continue separating the adhesive.

Step 6

Slide the first opening pick towards the top-left corner of the device to separate the adhesive.
Leave the pick in the top-left corner to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

Slide the first opening pick towards the top-left corner of the device to separate the adhesive.

Leave the pick in the top-left corner to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

Step 7

              Heat the top edge

Heat an iOpener and apply it to the top edge of the device for two minutes.

Heat an iOpener and apply it to the top edge of the device for two minutes.

Step 8

              Separate the top left adhesive

Rotate the pick around the top-left corner of the device to separate the adhesive.

Rotate the pick around the top-left corner of the device to separate the adhesive.

Step 9

              Separate the top adhesive

Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the device, stopping just before you reach the front camera.
Avoid sliding the pick over the front camera, as you may damage the lens. The following steps will show how to prevent this.

Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the device, stopping just before you reach the front camera.

Avoid sliding the pick over the front camera, as you may damage the lens. The following steps will show how to prevent this.

Step 10

Pull the pick out until only the tip is between the digitizer and the frame.
Slide the pick above the front camera to separate the adhesive.
Leave the pick near the right side of the front camera before continuing.

Pull the pick out until only the tip is between the digitizer and the frame.

Slide the pick above the front camera to separate the adhesive.

Leave the pick near the right side of the front camera before continuing.

Step 11

Re-insert the pick and slide it towards the top-right corner of the device to completely separate the top adhesive.
Leave the pick in the top-right corner to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

Re-insert the pick and slide it towards the top-right corner of the device to completely separate the top adhesive.

Leave the pick in the top-right corner to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

Step 12

              Heat the right edge

Heat an iOpener and apply it to the right edge of the device for two minutes.

Heat an iOpener and apply it to the right edge of the device for two minutes.

Step 13

              Separate the top right adhesive

Rotate the pick around the top-right corner of the device to separate the adhesive.

Rotate the pick around the top-right corner of the device to separate the adhesive.

Step 14

              Separate the right adhesive

Insert a new opening pick and slide it to the middle of the iPad’s right edge.
The display cables are located approximately halfway from the bottom of the iPad. Stop sliding once you reach three inches from the bottom of the iPad.

Insert a new opening pick and slide it to the middle of the iPad’s right edge.

The display cables are located approximately halfway from the bottom of the iPad. Stop sliding once you reach three inches from the bottom of the iPad.

Step 15

              Heat the bottom edge

Heat an iOpener and apply it to the bottom edge of the device for two minutes.

Heat an iOpener and apply it to the bottom edge of the device for two minutes.

Step 16

              Separate the bottom left adhesive

Slide the bottom-left pick to the bottom-left corner to separate the adhesive.
Don’t fully rotate the pick around the corner, as you may damage the antenna.
Leave the pick in the bottom-left corner before moving to the next step.

Slide the bottom-left pick to the bottom-left corner to separate the adhesive.

Don’t fully rotate the pick around the corner, as you may damage the antenna.

Leave the pick in the bottom-left corner before moving to the next step.

Step 17

              Separate the bottom adhesive

Insert a new opening pick into the gap you just created on the bottom edge of the iPad.
Slide the pick over the antenna, stopping just before the home button.
Only slide the pick towards the home button and not away from it, as you may damage the antenna.
If you need to slide the pick over this section again, remove and re-insert it at the bottom-left corner.
Leave the pick to the left of the home button before continuing.

Insert a new opening pick into the gap you just created on the bottom edge of the iPad.

Slide the pick over the antenna, stopping just before the home button.

Only slide the pick towards the home button and not away from it, as you may damage the antenna.

If you need to slide the pick over this section again, remove and re-insert it at the bottom-left corner.

Leave the pick to the left of the home button before continuing.

Step 18

Insert an opening pick into the gap you just created.
Slide the pick underneath the home button and towards the bottom-right corner, making sure only the tip is between the digitizer and the frame.
Only insert the pick up to 1 mm to avoid damaging the right antenna.

Insert an opening pick into the gap you just created.

Slide the pick underneath the home button and towards the bottom-right corner, making sure only the tip is between the digitizer and the frame.

Only insert the pick up to 1 mm to avoid damaging the right antenna.

Step 19

Re-insert the pick and slide it towards the home button to completely separate the bottom adhesive.
Only slide the pick towards the home button and not away from it, as you may damage the antenna.
If you need to slide the pick over this section again, remove and re-insert it at the bottom-right corner.
Leave the pick to the right of the home button before continuing.

Re-insert the pick and slide it towards the home button to completely separate the bottom adhesive.

If you need to slide the pick over this section again, remove and re-insert it at the bottom-right corner.

Leave the pick to the right of the home button before continuing.

Step 20

              Heat the right edge

Step 21

Be very careful with this step. Take your time, ensure the adhesive is hot and soft, and make sure you separated all of the adhesive with a pick. Don’t be afraid to stop and reheat.
Twist the two opening picks on the left corners of the iPad to lift the digitizer slightly, separating the the last of the adhesive in the process.
If there’s a significant amount of resistance, reheat the edges and work along them with an opening pick.

Be very careful with this step. Take your time, ensure the adhesive is hot and soft, and make sure you separated all of the adhesive with a pick. Don’t be afraid to stop and reheat.

Twist the two opening picks on the left corners of the iPad to lift the digitizer slightly, separating the the last of the adhesive in the process.

If there’s a significant amount of resistance, reheat the edges and work along them with an opening pick.

Step 22

Lift the left edge of the digitizer upwards to further separate the adhesive along the right edge of the iPad.

Lift the left edge of the digitizer upwards to further separate the adhesive along the right edge of the iPad.

Step 23

              Separate the right adhesive

While supporting the digitizer, slide an opening pick between the two display cables to separate the last of the adhesive.

While supporting the digitizer, slide an opening pick between the two display cables to separate the last of the adhesive.

Step 24

Once all of the adhesive has been separated, open the digitizer like a book and rest it parallel to the iPad.
During reassembly, clean the remaining adhesive from the frame—and the digitizer if you’re re-using it—with isopropyl alcohol. Replace the adhesive with our adhesive strips or pre-cut adhesive cards.
Be mindful of the display cables when reassembling the device. Make sure they are folded properly underneath the LCD screen to prevent any damage.

Once all of the adhesive has been separated, open the digitizer like a book and rest it parallel to the iPad.

During reassembly, clean the remaining adhesive from the frame—and the digitizer if you’re re-using it—with isopropyl alcohol. Replace the adhesive with our adhesive strips or pre-cut adhesive cards.

Be mindful of the display cables when reassembling the device. Make sure they are folded properly underneath the LCD screen to prevent any damage.

Step 25

              Remove the LCD

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the four 4.3 mm-long screws securing the LCD to the frame.
Remove any tape obscuring the LCD screws.
Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your device.

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the four 4.3 mm-long screws securing the LCD to the frame.

Remove any tape obscuring the LCD screws.

Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your device.

Step 26

              Flip the LCD over

Don’t attempt to fully remove the LCD during this step, as it’s still connected by a flex cable.
Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the LCD out of its recess just enough to grab it with your fingers.
Flip the LCD like a page in a book, lifting near the camera and turning it over the home button end of the frame.
Lay the LCD on a clean, soft, lint-free surface to allow access to the display cables.

Don’t attempt to fully remove the LCD during this step, as it’s still connected by a flex cable.

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the LCD out of its recess just enough to grab it with your fingers.

Flip the LCD like a page in a book, lifting near the camera and turning it over the home button end of the frame.

Lay the LCD on a clean, soft, lint-free surface to allow access to the display cables.

Step 27

              Disconnect the battery

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the 2.3 mm-long screw securing the battery connector to the logic board.

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the 2.3 mm-long screw securing the battery connector to the logic board.

Step 28

              Battery connector information

These photos show what the battery connector looks like underneath the logic board. Use these photos as a reference while you safely disconnect the battery.
Notice that the battery connector has cantilever springs on the logic board that press against the battery contact pads. Since both the logic board and battery are glued down, you’ll need to slide something thin and flexible between the contact points to disconnect the battery.

These photos show what the battery connector looks like underneath the logic board. Use these photos as a reference while you safely disconnect the battery.

Notice that the battery connector has cantilever springs on the logic board that press against the battery contact pads. Since both the logic board and battery are glued down, you’ll need to slide something thin and flexible between the contact points to disconnect the battery.

Step 29

              Disconnect the battery

Be careful when you isolate the battery using a battery blocker. The battery contacts are easily bent or broken, resulting in irreversible damage.
Ensure that the iFixit logo on the battery blocker is facing up.
Slide the battery blocker underneath the logic board’s battery connector at a 35 degree angle.
Don’t push the battery blocker underneath the connector with excessive force. If you’re having trouble fitting the battery blocker underneath the logic board, you can try using a playing card to disconnect the battery instead.
The battery blocker or playing card ideally should slide under the logic board without encountering any blockages. After insertion, it should rest at about a 15 degree angle.
Leave the battery blocker in place as you work.

Be careful when you isolate the battery using a battery blocker. The battery contacts are easily bent or broken, resulting in irreversible damage.

Ensure that the iFixit logo on the battery blocker is facing up.

Slide the battery blocker underneath the logic board’s battery connector at a 35 degree angle.

Don’t push the battery blocker underneath the connector with excessive force. If you’re having trouble fitting the battery blocker underneath the logic board, you can try using a playing card to disconnect the battery instead.

The battery blocker or playing card ideally should slide under the logic board without encountering any blockages. After insertion, it should rest at about a 15 degree angle.

Leave the battery blocker in place as you work.

Step 30

              Unfasten the display cable bracket

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three 1.4 mm-long screws securing the display cable bracket.

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three 1.4 mm-long screws securing the display cable bracket.

Step 31

              Remove the display cable bracket

Use tweezers, or your fingers, to remove the display cable bracket.

Use tweezers, or your fingers, to remove the display cable bracket.

Step 32

              Disconnect the LCD Screen

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the LCD cable press connector.
To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side.
Don’t press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the LCD cable press connector.

To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side.

Don’t press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.

Step 33

              Remove the LCD

Remove the LCD completely and rest it face down on a clean, soft, lint-free surface.

Remove the LCD completely and rest it face down on a clean, soft, lint-free surface.

Step 34

              Disconnect the home button

Use a pair of tweezers to peel off the tape covering the home button cable ZIF connector.

Use a pair of tweezers to peel off the tape covering the home button cable ZIF connector.

Step 35

Use a spudger, an opening tool, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the home button cable ZIF connector.

Use a spudger, an opening tool, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the home button cable ZIF connector.

Step 36

Use a pair of tweezers to pull the home button ribbon cable straight out of the ZIF connector.

Use a pair of tweezers to pull the home button ribbon cable straight out of the ZIF connector.

Step 37

              Disconnect the display cables

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the two digitizer cable press connectors.
To avoid damaging your iPad, pry only on the connectors themselves, not on the socket on the logic board.

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the two digitizer cable press connectors.

To avoid damaging your iPad, pry only on the connectors themselves, not on the socket on the logic board.

Step 38

              Remove the vibration isolator

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up the vibration isolator near the bottom-right corner of the device.
Take care not to puncture or tear the home button ribbon cable.
Remove the vibration isolator.

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up the vibration isolator near the bottom-right corner of the device.

Take care not to puncture or tear the home button ribbon cable.

Remove the vibration isolator.

Step 39

The home button cable is secured with some light adhesive.
Use a pair of tweezers to peel the home button cable away from the frame.

The home button cable is secured with some light adhesive.

Use a pair of tweezers to peel the home button cable away from the frame.

Step 40

              Remove the front panel assembly

Remove the front panel assembly.
Use an opening pick to cut away any residual adhesive that may still be connecting the front panel assembly to the frame.
If you experience “ghost” or “phantom” touch input issues with your new display, this can be resolved by adding a layer of very thin insulating tape, such as Kapton (polyimide) tape, to the highlighted areas on the back of the panel. iFixit replacement digitizers come with the proper insulation and should not require the addition of any tape.
Without the proper insulation, these areas of the digitizer can ground out against other components, causing touch input malfunction.
The insulation is not visible to the naked eye, and is different from the foam dust barrier strips found on many iPads.
During reassembly, before installing a display, remove any remaining adhesive from the iPad, and clean the glued areas with high concentration isopropyl alcohol (90% or greater) and a lint-free cloth. This helps prep the iPad for fresh adhesive and ensures that it will bond properly.
Test your iPad’s functions and install pre-cut adhesive strips to the back of the display using our display adhesive application guide before sealing it up.

Remove the front panel assembly.

Use an opening pick to cut away any residual adhesive that may still be connecting the front panel assembly to the frame.

If you experience “ghost” or “phantom” touch input issues with your new display, this can be resolved by adding a layer of very thin insulating tape, such as Kapton (polyimide) tape, to the highlighted areas on the back of the panel. iFixit replacement digitizers come with the proper insulation and should not require the addition of any tape.

Without the proper insulation, these areas of the digitizer can ground out against other components, causing touch input malfunction.

The insulation is not visible to the naked eye, and is different from the foam dust barrier strips found on many iPads.

During reassembly, before installing a display, remove any remaining adhesive from the iPad, and clean the glued areas with high concentration isopropyl alcohol (90% or greater) and a lint-free cloth. This helps prep the iPad for fresh adhesive and ensures that it will bond properly.

Test your iPad’s functions and install pre-cut adhesive strips to the back of the display using our display adhesive application guide before sealing it up.

Step 41

              Unfasten the upper component bracket

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three 1.4 mm-long screws securing the upper component bracket.

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three 1.4 mm-long screws securing the upper component bracket.

Step 42

              Remove the upper component bracket

Use tweezers, or your fingers, to remove the upper component bracket from the frame.

Use tweezers, or your fingers, to remove the upper component bracket from the frame.

Step 43

              Disconnect the rear camera

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the rear camera press connector.

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the rear camera press connector.

Step 44

              Heat the rear camera

Heat an iOpener and apply it to the top-left edge of the iPad’s rear for thirty seconds to loosen the rear camera adhesive.

Heat an iOpener and apply it to the top-left edge of the iPad’s rear for thirty seconds to loosen the rear camera adhesive.

Step 45

              Remove the rear camera

Use a spudger to pry the rear camera out of the frame.
Use tweezers, or your fingers, to remove the rear camera.

Use a spudger to pry the rear camera out of the frame.

Use tweezers, or your fingers, to remove the rear camera.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our iPad 8 Answers community for help.

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