Ipad Mini Wi Fi Logic Board Replacement Repair Guide

Difficulty

Very difficult

Steps

123

Time Required

                          1 - 3 hours

Sections

iOpener Heating
4 steps
Front Panel
27 steps
LCD Assembly
17 steps
LCD Shield Plate
3 steps
Battery Connector
3 steps
LCD
4 steps
Front Panel Assembly
3 steps
Battery
12 steps
Logic Board Assembly
24 steps
Plastic Covers
2 steps
Wi-Fi/Bluetooth Antenna
6 steps
GPS Antenna
2 steps
Speakers
7 steps
Logic Board
9 steps

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Introduction

What you need

Step 1

              iOpener Heating

We recommend that you clean your microwave before proceeding, as any nasty gunk on the bottom may end up stuck to the iOpener.
Place the iOpener in the center of the microwave.
For carousel microwaves: Make sure the plate spins freely. If your iOpener gets stuck, it may overheat and burn.

We recommend that you clean your microwave before proceeding, as any nasty gunk on the bottom may end up stuck to the iOpener.

Place the iOpener in the center of the microwave.

For carousel microwaves: Make sure the plate spins freely. If your iOpener gets stuck, it may overheat and burn.

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Step 2

Heat the iOpener for thirty seconds.
Throughout the repair procedure, as the iOpener cools, reheat it in the microwave for an additional thirty seconds at a time.
Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair. Overheating may cause the iOpener to burst.
Never touch the iOpener if it appears swollen.
If the iOpener is still too hot in the middle to touch, continue using it while waiting for it to cool down some more before reheating. A properly heated iOpener should stay warm for up to 10 minutes.

Heat the iOpener for thirty seconds.

Throughout the repair procedure, as the iOpener cools, reheat it in the microwave for an additional thirty seconds at a time.

Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair. Overheating may cause the iOpener to burst.

Never touch the iOpener if it appears swollen.

If the iOpener is still too hot in the middle to touch, continue using it while waiting for it to cool down some more before reheating. A properly heated iOpener should stay warm for up to 10 minutes.

Step 3

Remove the iOpener from the microwave, holding it by one of the two flat ends to avoid the hot center.
The iOpener will be very hot, so be careful when handling it. Use an oven mitt if necessary.

Remove the iOpener from the microwave, holding it by one of the two flat ends to avoid the hot center.

The iOpener will be very hot, so be careful when handling it. Use an oven mitt if necessary.

Step 4

              Alternate iOpener heating method

If you don’t have a microwave, follow this step to heat your iOpener in boiling water.
Fill a pot or pan with enough water to fully submerge an iOpener.
Heat the water to a boil. Turn off the heat.
Place an iOpener into the hot water for 2-3 minutes. Make sure the iOpener is fully submerged in the water.
Use tongs to extract the heated iOpener from the hot water.
Thoroughly dry the iOpener with a towel.
The iOpener will be very hot, so be careful to hold it only by the end tabs.
Your iOpener is ready for use! If you need to reheat the iOpener, heat the water to a boil, turn off the heat, and place the iOpener in the water for 2-3 minutes.

If you don’t have a microwave, follow this step to heat your iOpener in boiling water.

Fill a pot or pan with enough water to fully submerge an iOpener.

Heat the water to a boil. Turn off the heat.

Place an iOpener into the hot water for 2-3 minutes. Make sure the iOpener is fully submerged in the water.

Use tongs to extract the heated iOpener from the hot water.

Thoroughly dry the iOpener with a towel.

The iOpener will be very hot, so be careful to hold it only by the end tabs.

Your iOpener is ready for use! If you need to reheat the iOpener, heat the water to a boil, turn off the heat, and place the iOpener in the water for 2-3 minutes.

Step 5

              Front Panel

If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.
Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad’s display until the whole face is covered.
This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.
Do your best to follow the rest of the guide as described. However, once the glass is broken, it will likely continue to crack as you work, and you may need to use a metal prying tool to scoop the glass out.
Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes, and be careful not to damage the LCD screen.

If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.

Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad’s display until the whole face is covered.

This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.

Do your best to follow the rest of the guide as described. However, once the glass is broken, it will likely continue to crack as you work, and you may need to use a metal prying tool to scoop the glass out.

Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes, and be careful not to damage the LCD screen.

Step 6

Handling it by the tab, place the heated iOpener on the side of the iPad to the left of the home button assembly.
Let the iOpener sit for about five minutes to soften the adhesive beneath the glass.

Handling it by the tab, place the heated iOpener on the side of the iPad to the left of the home button assembly.

Let the iOpener sit for about five minutes to soften the adhesive beneath the glass.

Step 7

Carefully place a suction cup halfway up the heated side.
Be sure the cup is completely flat on the screen to get a tight seal.
While holding the iPad down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the front panel glass from from the rear case.
Be careful to only lift the glass enough to insert an opening pick—any more and you may risk cracking the glass.

Carefully place a suction cup halfway up the heated side.

Be sure the cup is completely flat on the screen to get a tight seal.

While holding the iPad down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the front panel glass from from the rear case.

Be careful to only lift the glass enough to insert an opening pick—any more and you may risk cracking the glass.

Step 8

While holding the glass up with the suction cup, slide the point of an opening pick into the gap between the glass and body of the iPad.
Don’t insert the opening pick any deeper than the black bezel on the side of the display. Inserting the pick too far may damage the LCD.
Pull the suction cup’s plastic nub to release the vacuum seal and remove the suction cup from the display assembly.

While holding the glass up with the suction cup, slide the point of an opening pick into the gap between the glass and body of the iPad.

Don’t insert the opening pick any deeper than the black bezel on the side of the display. Inserting the pick too far may damage the LCD.

Pull the suction cup’s plastic nub to release the vacuum seal and remove the suction cup from the display assembly.

Step 9

Reheat and reapply the iOpener.
Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair procedure. Always wait at least ten minutes before reheating the iOpener.
Let it rest for a few minutes to reheat the left edge of the iPad.

Reheat and reapply the iOpener.

Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair procedure. Always wait at least ten minutes before reheating the iOpener.

Let it rest for a few minutes to reheat the left edge of the iPad.

Step 10

Place a second opening pick alongside the first and slide the pick down along the edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go.
Throughout the rest of the procedure, if you encounter significant resistance to sliding picks beneath the glass, stop and reheat the section you’re working on. Forcing the picks risks cracking the glass.

Place a second opening pick alongside the first and slide the pick down along the edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go.

Throughout the rest of the procedure, if you encounter significant resistance to sliding picks beneath the glass, stop and reheat the section you’re working on. Forcing the picks risks cracking the glass.

Step 11

Continue moving the opening pick down the side of the display to release the adhesive.
If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, “roll” the pick along the side of the iPad, continuing to release the adhesive.

Continue moving the opening pick down the side of the display to release the adhesive.

If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, “roll” the pick along the side of the iPad, continuing to release the adhesive.

Step 12

Take the first pick you inserted and slide it up toward the top corner of the iPad.
If you can see the tip of the opening pick through the front glass, don’t panic—just pull the pick out a little bit. Most likely, everything will be fine, but try to avoid this as it may deposit adhesive on the front of the LCD that is difficult to clean off.

Take the first pick you inserted and slide it up toward the top corner of the iPad.

If you can see the tip of the opening pick through the front glass, don’t panic—just pull the pick out a little bit. Most likely, everything will be fine, but try to avoid this as it may deposit adhesive on the front of the LCD that is difficult to clean off.

Step 13

Reheat the iOpener and place it on the top edge of the iPad, over the front-facing camera.
Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair procedure. Wait at least ten minutes before reheating the iOpener.
If you have a flexible iOpener, you can bend it to heat both the upper left corner and the upper edge at the same time.

Reheat the iOpener and place it on the top edge of the iPad, over the front-facing camera.

Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair procedure. Wait at least ten minutes before reheating the iOpener.

If you have a flexible iOpener, you can bend it to heat both the upper left corner and the upper edge at the same time.

Step 14

Slide the opening pick around the top left corner of the iPad to separate the adhesive.

Slide the opening pick around the top left corner of the iPad to separate the adhesive.

Step 15

Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the iPad, stopping just before you reach the camera.
The third image shows where the front-facing camera and housing are in the iPad.
Avoid sliding the opening pick over the front-facing camera, as you may smear adhesive onto the lens or damage the camera. The following steps will detail how to best avoid disturbing the front-facing camera.

Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the iPad, stopping just before you reach the camera.

The third image shows where the front-facing camera and housing are in the iPad.

Avoid sliding the opening pick over the front-facing camera, as you may smear adhesive onto the lens or damage the camera. The following steps will detail how to best avoid disturbing the front-facing camera.

Step 16

Pull the pick out slightly, and slide the very tip gently along the top of the front-facing camera section of the top edge.

Pull the pick out slightly, and slide the very tip gently along the top of the front-facing camera section of the top edge.

Step 17

Leave the opening pick in the iPad slightly past the front-facing camera.
Take a second pick and insert it to the left of the camera, where the first pick just was. Slide it back to the corner to completely cut any remaining adhesive.
Leave the second pick in place to prevent the corner adhesive from re-sealing as it cools.

Leave the opening pick in the iPad slightly past the front-facing camera.

Take a second pick and insert it to the left of the camera, where the first pick just was. Slide it back to the corner to completely cut any remaining adhesive.

Leave the second pick in place to prevent the corner adhesive from re-sealing as it cools.

Step 18

Insert the previous pick deeper into the iPad and slide it away from the camera toward the corner.

Insert the previous pick deeper into the iPad and slide it away from the camera toward the corner.

Step 19

Leave the three picks in the corners of the iPad to prevent re-adhering of the front panel adhesive.
Reheat the iOpener and place it on the remaining long side of the iPad—along the volume and lock buttons.

Leave the three picks in the corners of the iPad to prevent re-adhering of the front panel adhesive.

Reheat the iOpener and place it on the remaining long side of the iPad—along the volume and lock buttons.

Step 20

Slide the top right opening pick around the corner to fully release the top edge of the glass.
Leave this pick in place to keep the adhesive from re-sealing itself, and grab a new pick for the next step.

Slide the top right opening pick around the corner to fully release the top edge of the glass.

Leave this pick in place to keep the adhesive from re-sealing itself, and grab a new pick for the next step.

Step 21

Insert a new opening pick and slide it to the middle of the right edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go.

Insert a new opening pick and slide it to the middle of the right edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go.

Step 22

Continue to slide the pick down the right edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive.

Continue to slide the pick down the right edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive.

Step 23

Leave the opening picks in place and reheat the iOpener.
Remember not to overheat the iOpener—no more than once every ten minutes.
Set the reheated iOpener on the home button end of the iPad and let it rest for a few minutes to soften the adhesive beneath the glass.

Leave the opening picks in place and reheat the iOpener.

Remember not to overheat the iOpener—no more than once every ten minutes.

Set the reheated iOpener on the home button end of the iPad and let it rest for a few minutes to soften the adhesive beneath the glass.

Step 24

Slide the lower left pick to the lower left corner to cut the adhesive on that corner.
Leave the pick at the corner. Do not pry any farther, and do not remove the pick from the iPad.
There are quite a few things to avoid beneath the lower bezel, so study the third image closely:
Antennas
Home button cavity
Digitizer cable
The following steps will direct you where to pry to avoid damage to these components. Only apply heat and pry where directed.

Slide the lower left pick to the lower left corner to cut the adhesive on that corner.

Leave the pick at the corner. Do not pry any farther, and do not remove the pick from the iPad.

There are quite a few things to avoid beneath the lower bezel, so study the third image closely:

Antennas

Home button cavity

Digitizer cable

The following steps will direct you where to pry to avoid damage to these components. Only apply heat and pry where directed.

Step 25

Leave the pick from the last step in place to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.
With a new pick, slice gently over the left-hand antenna, stopping before the home button.
Only slide the pick from the outer edge toward the center of the iPad. Do not move the pick back toward the outer edge, as moving in this direction may damage the antenna.
If you need to slide the pick over the lower section more than once, remove it and re-insert at the outer edge, and slide inwards.
Leave the pick in place before moving on.

Leave the pick from the last step in place to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

With a new pick, slice gently over the left-hand antenna, stopping before the home button.

Only slide the pick from the outer edge toward the center of the iPad. Do not move the pick back toward the outer edge, as moving in this direction may damage the antenna.

If you need to slide the pick over the lower section more than once, remove it and re-insert at the outer edge, and slide inwards.

Leave the pick in place before moving on.

Step 26

Insert the tip of one last pick next to the previous step’s pick, and slide it beneath the home button.
Stop about an inch from the right-hand side to avoid cutting the digitizer cable.
Insert the pick slightly deeper and work it back toward the home button.
Again, be sure to only slide the pick toward the center of the iPad when it is fully inserted; otherwise you may damage the antenna beneath the glass.

Insert the tip of one last pick next to the previous step’s pick, and slide it beneath the home button.

Stop about an inch from the right-hand side to avoid cutting the digitizer cable.

Insert the pick slightly deeper and work it back toward the home button.

Again, be sure to only slide the pick toward the center of the iPad when it is fully inserted; otherwise you may damage the antenna beneath the glass.

Step 27

Reheat and reapply the iOpener to the top bezel of the iPad.

Reheat and reapply the iOpener to the top bezel of the iPad.

Step 28

Be very careful with this step. Take your time and ensure the adhesive is hot and soft, and that you’ve been through all of the adhesive with an opening pick. Don’t be afraid to stop and reheat.
At the top of the iPad opposite the home button, you should have a pick lodged into each corner. Twist the picks to lift the glass slightly, separating the last of the adhesive along all four edges.
If you encounter a significant amount of resistance, stop twisting. Leave the picks in place, reheat, and reapply the iOpener to the problem areas, and run a pick through the sticking point one more time.

Be very careful with this step. Take your time and ensure the adhesive is hot and soft, and that you’ve been through all of the adhesive with an opening pick. Don’t be afraid to stop and reheat.

At the top of the iPad opposite the home button, you should have a pick lodged into each corner. Twist the picks to lift the glass slightly, separating the last of the adhesive along all four edges.

If you encounter a significant amount of resistance, stop twisting. Leave the picks in place, reheat, and reapply the iOpener to the problem areas, and run a pick through the sticking point one more time.

Step 29

Lift slowly and gently to further detach the adhesive along the lower edge.

Lift slowly and gently to further detach the adhesive along the lower edge.

Step 30

Once all of the adhesive has been separated, open the front glass like a page in a book and rest it on your workspace.
If reusing the front panel assembly during reassembly, you will need to replace the display adhesive. Use our display adhesive application guide to reapply your display adhesive and reseal your device.

Once all of the adhesive has been separated, open the front glass like a page in a book and rest it on your workspace.

If reusing the front panel assembly during reassembly, you will need to replace the display adhesive. Use our display adhesive application guide to reapply your display adhesive and reseal your device.

Step 31

The front-facing camera housing may stick to the front panel; peel up the housing and place it back over the camera to protect it.
Rock the camera housing up on one edge to free it from the adhesive and remove it from the front panel.
Return the front-facing camera housing to its recess in the rear case.

The front-facing camera housing may stick to the front panel; peel up the housing and place it back over the camera to protect it.

Rock the camera housing up on one edge to free it from the adhesive and remove it from the front panel.

Return the front-facing camera housing to its recess in the rear case.

Step 32

              LCD Assembly

Small pieces of foam tape cover the top and bottom right-hand screws securing the LCD to the rear case.
Use tweezers to peel up and remove the rectangular piece of foam tape covering the top right LCD screw.
Remove the triangular tape covering the lower right LCD screw.

Small pieces of foam tape cover the top and bottom right-hand screws securing the LCD to the rear case.

Use tweezers to peel up and remove the rectangular piece of foam tape covering the top right LCD screw.

Remove the triangular tape covering the lower right LCD screw.

Step 33

The top left LCD screw may be covered by adhesive tape from the front panel.
If the tape is present, use the flat end of a spudger to pry the tape up and away, exposing the LCD screw beneath.

The top left LCD screw may be covered by adhesive tape from the front panel.

If the tape is present, use the flat end of a spudger to pry the tape up and away, exposing the LCD screw beneath.

Step 34

Remove the four 3.9 mm Phillips #000 screws securing the LCD to the rear case.

Remove the four 3.9 mm Phillips #000 screws securing the LCD to the rear case.

Step 35

Use a pair of tweezers to peel up the small piece of tape connecting the LCD frame to the right speaker.

Use a pair of tweezers to peel up the small piece of tape connecting the LCD frame to the right speaker.

Step 36

A thin strip of foam tape on the LCD frame is covering a piece of tape connecting the LCD to the panel beneath it. To proceed, you’ll have to break and peel up some of the foam tape to expose the tape hidden beneath.
Use a pair of thin tweezers to pull up the top of the foam tape surrounding the LCD.
Be careful not to touch the LCD with the tweezers, as you may damage the display.
Use the tweezers to peel the foam tape up to expose the top of the LCD.

A thin strip of foam tape on the LCD frame is covering a piece of tape connecting the LCD to the panel beneath it. To proceed, you’ll have to break and peel up some of the foam tape to expose the tape hidden beneath.

Use a pair of thin tweezers to pull up the top of the foam tape surrounding the LCD.

Be careful not to touch the LCD with the tweezers, as you may damage the display.

Use the tweezers to peel the foam tape up to expose the top of the LCD.

Step 37

Insert the tip of a spudger between the LCD frame and the tape on the top of the LCD.
Slide the spudger along the space between the LCD frame and tape, separating the tape from the LCD frame.

Insert the tip of a spudger between the LCD frame and the tape on the top of the LCD.

Slide the spudger along the space between the LCD frame and tape, separating the tape from the LCD frame.

Step 38

The LCD is glued to the metal LCD shield plate behind it along the top, left, and right edges. In order to safely loosen this adhesive, you’ll be using a guitar pick to shift the LCD a couple of millimeters left and right several times.
Insert a guitar pick into the gap between the LCD and rear case, near the top of the left side of the LCD.
Bend the pick slightly away from the iPad, just enough to spread the gap between the LCD and rear case.

The LCD is glued to the metal LCD shield plate behind it along the top, left, and right edges. In order to safely loosen this adhesive, you’ll be using a guitar pick to shift the LCD a couple of millimeters left and right several times.

Insert a guitar pick into the gap between the LCD and rear case, near the top of the left side of the LCD.

Bend the pick slightly away from the iPad, just enough to spread the gap between the LCD and rear case.

Step 39

Insert the guitar pick into three more locations down the left side of the LCD and bend it over in each location, to slide the LCD over to the right side of the rear case.

Insert the guitar pick into three more locations down the left side of the LCD and bend it over in each location, to slide the LCD over to the right side of the rear case.

Step 40

Now switch to the right side of the LCD, and pry with the guitar pick in several places along the side to shift the LCD back to the left.
Repeat this and the previous step a few times, until the LCD is easily moved left and right.

Now switch to the right side of the LCD, and pry with the guitar pick in several places along the side to shift the LCD back to the left.

Repeat this and the previous step a few times, until the LCD is easily moved left and right.

Step 41

In the next few steps, you’ll be sliding a spudger between the LCD and the metal backing plate to fully separate the LCD from the adhesive beneath.
Insert the flat end of a spudger between the LCD frame and the metal backing plate.
Be sure to get the spudger between the LCD frame and backing plate, and not beneath the plate. Prying up on the plate will damage it, because it is screwed down to the rear case beneath the LCD.

In the next few steps, you’ll be sliding a spudger between the LCD and the metal backing plate to fully separate the LCD from the adhesive beneath.

Insert the flat end of a spudger between the LCD frame and the metal backing plate.

Be sure to get the spudger between the LCD frame and backing plate, and not beneath the plate. Prying up on the plate will damage it, because it is screwed down to the rear case beneath the LCD.

Step 42

Starting at the top right of the device, slide the spudger in between the LCD frame and metal backing plate, which will separate the adhesive as you push.
The goal is to separate the adhesive, not to pry the LCD up, so keep the pointed tip of the spudger as low as possible to prevent bending the LCD.
If inserting the spudger causes the corner of the LCD to bend up, repeat the steps with the guitar pick to further loosen the adhesive.

Starting at the top right of the device, slide the spudger in between the LCD frame and metal backing plate, which will separate the adhesive as you push.

The goal is to separate the adhesive, not to pry the LCD up, so keep the pointed tip of the spudger as low as possible to prevent bending the LCD.

If inserting the spudger causes the corner of the LCD to bend up, repeat the steps with the guitar pick to further loosen the adhesive.

Step 43

Repeat the previous procedure along the top of the LCD.
Insert the flat end of the spudger between the LCD frame and metal backing plate and gently push the spudger in across the top of the device, separating adhesive.

Repeat the previous procedure along the top of the LCD.

Insert the flat end of the spudger between the LCD frame and metal backing plate and gently push the spudger in across the top of the device, separating adhesive.

Step 44

Continue with the left side of the LCD: insert the flat end of the spudger between the LCD and shield plate and insert the spudger as far as it will go.
At this point the LCD should be loosened from the adhesive holding it. If it is not, re-insert the spudger on the right side or top to fully free the LCD.

Continue with the left side of the LCD: insert the flat end of the spudger between the LCD and shield plate and insert the spudger as far as it will go.

At this point the LCD should be loosened from the adhesive holding it. If it is not, re-insert the spudger on the right side or top to fully free the LCD.

Step 45

Lift the LCD up a couple inches from the rear case to ensure it’s free from the adhesive.

Lift the LCD up a couple inches from the rear case to ensure it’s free from the adhesive.

Step 46

Two wide strips of tape connect the LCD to the speakers.
While holding the LCD with one hand, Insert the flat end of a spudger into the gap between this tape and the left speaker.
Gently pull the LCD away from the speakers while rotating the spudger outward to separate the tape from the speaker.

Two wide strips of tape connect the LCD to the speakers.

While holding the LCD with one hand, Insert the flat end of a spudger into the gap between this tape and the left speaker.

Gently pull the LCD away from the speakers while rotating the spudger outward to separate the tape from the speaker.

Step 47

Insert the flat end of the spudger into the gap between the right speaker and the LCD tape.
While pulling the LCD away from the speakers, rotate the spudger outward, widening the gap and releasing the tape from the speaker.

Insert the flat end of the spudger into the gap between the right speaker and the LCD tape.

While pulling the LCD away from the speakers, rotate the spudger outward, widening the gap and releasing the tape from the speaker.

Step 48

Flip the LCD over and rest it on top of the front panel glass.
Do not attempt to remove the LCD from the iPad, as it is still connected by its data cable.

Flip the LCD over and rest it on top of the front panel glass.

Do not attempt to remove the LCD from the iPad, as it is still connected by its data cable.

Step 49

              LCD Shield Plate

Remove the following screws securing the LCD shield plate to the rear case of the iPad:
Two 2.6 mm Phillips #00
Thirteen 1.7 mm Phillips #00
One additional 1.7 mm Phillips #00 on some devices.

Remove the following screws securing the LCD shield plate to the rear case of the iPad:

Two 2.6 mm Phillips #00

Thirteen 1.7 mm Phillips #00

One additional 1.7 mm Phillips #00 on some devices.

Step 50

Insert the flat end of a spudger underneath the center of the LCD shield plate from the bottom end of the iPad.
Pry up on the spudger to free the plate from the sides of the rear case.

Insert the flat end of a spudger underneath the center of the LCD shield plate from the bottom end of the iPad.

Pry up on the spudger to free the plate from the sides of the rear case.

Step 51

Remove the LCD shield plate from the iPad.

Remove the LCD shield plate from the iPad.

Step 52

              Battery Connector

Remove the three 1.3 mm Phillips #00 screws securing the connector shield to the logic board.
Be sure to not substitute these three screws with any other screws, specifically the screws securing the LCD shield plate to the rear case of the iPad. Any slightly longer screws may strip the screw holes and result in irreparable damage to the logic board.

Remove the three 1.3 mm Phillips #00 screws securing the connector shield to the logic board.

Be sure to not substitute these three screws with any other screws, specifically the screws securing the LCD shield plate to the rear case of the iPad. Any slightly longer screws may strip the screw holes and result in irreparable damage to the logic board.

Step 53

Use a pair of tweezers to grasp and remove the connector shield from the iPad.

Use a pair of tweezers to grasp and remove the connector shield from the iPad.

Step 54

Use a plastic opening tool to gently pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.
Be very careful to only pry up on the battery connector and not on the socket itself. If you pry up on the logic board socket, you may break the connector entirely.

Use a plastic opening tool to gently pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.

Be very careful to only pry up on the battery connector and not on the socket itself. If you pry up on the logic board socket, you may break the connector entirely.

Step 55

LCD

Use a plastic opening tool to pry the LCD connector from its socket on the logic board.
Do not pry against the large IC next to the connector, or you may break it. Gently pry from the side of the connector as shown.

Use a plastic opening tool to pry the LCD connector from its socket on the logic board.

Do not pry against the large IC next to the connector, or you may break it. Gently pry from the side of the connector as shown.

Step 56

The LCD is still connected to the rest of the iPad by two wide strips of adhesive tape that run up from the inside of the rear case to the front bottom LCD frame.
While holding the LCD with one hand, insert the flat end of a spudger between the LCD and tape on the iPad’s right side.
Slide the spudger outward, separating the tape, while gently lifting up on the LCD to pull it away from the tape.
It may help to twist the spudger, to spread the gap the rest of the way and separate the LCD from the tape.

The LCD is still connected to the rest of the iPad by two wide strips of adhesive tape that run up from the inside of the rear case to the front bottom LCD frame.

While holding the LCD with one hand, insert the flat end of a spudger between the LCD and tape on the iPad’s right side.

Slide the spudger outward, separating the tape, while gently lifting up on the LCD to pull it away from the tape.

It may help to twist the spudger, to spread the gap the rest of the way and separate the LCD from the tape.

Step 57

While still holding the LCD up with one hand, move on to the iPad’s left side and repeat the previous step’s procedure to separate the second piece of tape.
Insert the flat end of a spudger between the LCD frame and tape, and slide outward while gently lifting up on the LCD.

While still holding the LCD up with one hand, move on to the iPad’s left side and repeat the previous step’s procedure to separate the second piece of tape.

Insert the flat end of a spudger between the LCD frame and tape, and slide outward while gently lifting up on the LCD.

Step 58

Lift and remove the LCD from the iPad Mini.

Lift and remove the LCD from the iPad Mini.

Step 59

              Front Panel Assembly

Be very careful to pry evenly on the digitizer connector, and not on the socket at all. The socket and connector are very delicate and if you damage either, your digitizer won’t work.
To minimize stress on the socket, try prying under the short edge of the connector, rather than the long edge which is shown in these images.
Gently pry the digitizer connector up from its socket on the logic board.

Be very careful to pry evenly on the digitizer connector, and not on the socket at all. The socket and connector are very delicate and if you damage either, your digitizer won’t work.

To minimize stress on the socket, try prying under the short edge of the connector, rather than the long edge which is shown in these images.

Gently pry the digitizer connector up from its socket on the logic board.

Step 60

Gently pry the digitizer cable board up from the rear case.

Gently pry the digitizer cable board up from the rear case.

Step 61

Lift and remove the front panel from the iPad.

Lift and remove the front panel from the iPad.

Step 62

              Battery

Reheat the iOpener in the microwave for one minute.
Remember to be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair procedure. Wait at least two minutes before reheating the iOpener, and never microwave it for more than one minute.
Place the heated iOpener on the back of the iPad, along the center. Let it sit there for 90 seconds to soften the battery adhesive.
Move the iOpener to the right of the back of the iPad (the side opposite the rear-facing camera), and let the iOpener sit for another 90 seconds.
If the iOpener cools significantly between sittings, reheat it for another minute.

Reheat the iOpener in the microwave for one minute.

Remember to be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair procedure. Wait at least two minutes before reheating the iOpener, and never microwave it for more than one minute.

Place the heated iOpener on the back of the iPad, along the center. Let it sit there for 90 seconds to soften the battery adhesive.

Move the iOpener to the right of the back of the iPad (the side opposite the rear-facing camera), and let the iOpener sit for another 90 seconds.

If the iOpener cools significantly between sittings, reheat it for another minute.

Step 63

Throughout the following procedure, you’ll be sliding thin plastic cards between the battery and rear case of the iPad, to separate the adhesive securing the battery in place. Be careful to keep the cards as flat as possible to avoid bending the battery, which may damage it and cause it to release dangerous chemicals.
Flip the iPad back over and insert a plastic card between the top left battery and the rear case.
If you encounter significant resistance, re-heat the iOpener and repeat the previous step to give the adhesive more time to soften.

Throughout the following procedure, you’ll be sliding thin plastic cards between the battery and rear case of the iPad, to separate the adhesive securing the battery in place. Be careful to keep the cards as flat as possible to avoid bending the battery, which may damage it and cause it to release dangerous chemicals.

Flip the iPad back over and insert a plastic card between the top left battery and the rear case.

If you encounter significant resistance, re-heat the iOpener and repeat the previous step to give the adhesive more time to soften.

Step 64

Press the card in further, breaking as much of the adhesive holding in the battery as you can.

Press the card in further, breaking as much of the adhesive holding in the battery as you can.

Step 65

Remove the plastic card and reinsert it underneath the top right corner of the battery.

Remove the plastic card and reinsert it underneath the top right corner of the battery.

Step 66

Again, press the card in further, to break more of the adhesive behind the battery.
Leave this card in place to prevent the adhesive from resetting.

Again, press the card in further, to break more of the adhesive behind the battery.

Leave this card in place to prevent the adhesive from resetting.

Step 67

Insert a second plastic card beneath the bottom left corner of the battery.

Insert a second plastic card beneath the bottom left corner of the battery.

Step 68

Slowly push the card in further, breaking more of the adhesive between the battery and the rear case.

Slowly push the card in further, breaking more of the adhesive between the battery and the rear case.

Step 69

Remove the card and reinsert it, beneath the bottom right corner of the battery.

Remove the card and reinsert it, beneath the bottom right corner of the battery.

Step 70

Push the card further underneath the battery.

Push the card further underneath the battery.

Step 71

Grasp both cards and slowly pull the right side of the battery up about two inches from the rear case.
Peel slowly and try to keep the battery as straight as possible.

Grasp both cards and slowly pull the right side of the battery up about two inches from the rear case.

Peel slowly and try to keep the battery as straight as possible.

Step 72

While lifting the right side of the battery up with one hand, use a plastic card to cut any adhesive still holding the battery down to the rear case.

While lifting the right side of the battery up with one hand, use a plastic card to cut any adhesive still holding the battery down to the rear case.

Step 73

Lift and remove the battery from the iPad.

Lift and remove the battery from the iPad.

Step 74

              Logic Board Assembly

Use tweezers to peel up and remove the small piece of tape covering the front-facing camera cable connector.

Use tweezers to peel up and remove the small piece of tape covering the front-facing camera cable connector.

Step 75

The front-facing camera cable connector is secured with pieces of tape that wrap up around the sides of the cable and are fastened to two small metal plates.
Use a plastic opening tool to gently pry the lower metal plate up from the front-facing camera cable connector.
Being careful not to break the plate or the tape attached to it, pry it up and fold it away from the front-facing camera cable connector.

The front-facing camera cable connector is secured with pieces of tape that wrap up around the sides of the cable and are fastened to two small metal plates.

Use a plastic opening tool to gently pry the lower metal plate up from the front-facing camera cable connector.

Being careful not to break the plate or the tape attached to it, pry it up and fold it away from the front-facing camera cable connector.

Step 76

Gently pry the second (upper) metal plate up from the front-facing camera cable connector.
Again, carefully pry the plate up and away from the front-facing camera cable connector.

Gently pry the second (upper) metal plate up from the front-facing camera cable connector.

Again, carefully pry the plate up and away from the front-facing camera cable connector.

Step 77

Use a plastic opening tool to pry the front-facing camera cable’s connector up from its socket on the logic board.

Use a plastic opening tool to pry the front-facing camera cable’s connector up from its socket on the logic board.

Step 78

Gently fold the front-facing camera cable up and out of the way of the logic board.

Gently fold the front-facing camera cable up and out of the way of the logic board.

Step 79

Use tweezers to peel up and remove the small piece of tape covering the headphone jack cable connector.

Use tweezers to peel up and remove the small piece of tape covering the headphone jack cable connector.

Step 80

Use a plastic opening tool to gently pry the lower metal plate up from the headphone jack cable connector.
Being careful not to break the plate or the tape attached to it, pry it up and fold it away from the headphone jack cable connector.

Use a plastic opening tool to gently pry the lower metal plate up from the headphone jack cable connector.

Being careful not to break the plate or the tape attached to it, pry it up and fold it away from the headphone jack cable connector.

Step 81

Pry the second (upper) metal plate up from the front-facing camera cable connector.
Again, carefully pry the plate up and away from the headphone jack cable connector.

Pry the second (upper) metal plate up from the front-facing camera cable connector.

Again, carefully pry the plate up and away from the headphone jack cable connector.

Step 82

Use a plastic opening tool to pry the headphone jack cable’s connector up out of its socket on the logic board.
Gently bend the headphone jack cable back, away from the logic board.

Use a plastic opening tool to pry the headphone jack cable’s connector up out of its socket on the logic board.

Gently bend the headphone jack cable back, away from the logic board.

Step 83

Use a plastic opening tool to pry the rear-facing camera cable up from its socket on the logic board.

Use a plastic opening tool to pry the rear-facing camera cable up from its socket on the logic board.

Step 84

Use tweezers to peel up and remove the small piece of tape covering the button ribbon cable ZIF connector.

Use tweezers to peel up and remove the small piece of tape covering the button ribbon cable ZIF connector.

Step 85

Use the tip of a spudger to lift up the tab on the button ribbon cable ZIF connector.

Use the tip of a spudger to lift up the tab on the button ribbon cable ZIF connector.

Step 86

Use tweezers to pull the button ribbon cable straight out of its ZIF socket on the logic board.

Use tweezers to pull the button ribbon cable straight out of its ZIF socket on the logic board.

Step 87

Gently peel back the wide piece of tape covering the top of the right speaker.

Gently peel back the wide piece of tape covering the top of the right speaker.

Step 88

Continue peeling the tape, and remove it from the iPad.

Continue peeling the tape, and remove it from the iPad.

Step 89

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the two bottom antenna cable connectors from their sockets on the logic board.

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the two bottom antenna cable connectors from their sockets on the logic board.

Step 90

Use the tip of a spudger to peel back the small piece of tape covering both antenna cables on the bottom right side of the iPad.
Leave the lower part of the tape stuck to the back of the rear case to aid in reassembly.

Use the tip of a spudger to peel back the small piece of tape covering both antenna cables on the bottom right side of the iPad.

Leave the lower part of the tape stuck to the back of the rear case to aid in reassembly.

Step 91

With the tip of a spudger, peel up the larger piece of tape covering both antenna cables near the bottom of the rear case.
Do not try to remove this piece of tape; it is wrapped around the top antenna cable.

With the tip of a spudger, peel up the larger piece of tape covering both antenna cables near the bottom of the rear case.

Do not try to remove this piece of tape; it is wrapped around the top antenna cable.

Step 92

Use the tip of a spudger to pry the small metal retaining clip off the left antenna cable, then de-route the cable from the clip.

Use the tip of a spudger to pry the small metal retaining clip off the left antenna cable, then de-route the cable from the clip.

Step 93

De-route the antenna cable from the corner of the iPad.

De-route the antenna cable from the corner of the iPad.

Step 94

Use the tip of a spudger to remove the small piece of tape securing the antenna cable in the bottom right corner of the iPad.

Use the tip of a spudger to remove the small piece of tape securing the antenna cable in the bottom right corner of the iPad.

Step 95

Peel the cable back from the corner of the iPad.

Peel the cable back from the corner of the iPad.

Step 96

Use the tip of a spudger to pry the antenna cable tape up from the rear case of the iPad.
Gently pull the antenna cable out of the way as you work along the piece of tape, to keep it from resealing.

Use the tip of a spudger to pry the antenna cable tape up from the rear case of the iPad.

Gently pull the antenna cable out of the way as you work along the piece of tape, to keep it from resealing.

Step 97

Pull the antenna cable from the slot behind the Lightning connector.

Pull the antenna cable from the slot behind the Lightning connector.

Step 98

              Plastic Covers

Use tweezers to remove the small plastic cover on top of the horizontal screw on the right side of the Lightning connector housing.

Use tweezers to remove the small plastic cover on top of the horizontal screw on the right side of the Lightning connector housing.

Step 99

Remove the plastic covering from the left side of the Lightning connector housing.

Remove the plastic covering from the left side of the Lightning connector housing.

Step 100

              Wi-Fi/Bluetooth Antenna

Pull the wide tape toward the top of the iPad, applying constant force to release it from the antenna cable between it and the speaker.
Slide the tip of a spudger through the gap between the wide tape and the antenna cable, breaking the adhesive connecting the two.
Continue pulling the wide tape until it is no longer covering the antenna cable.

Pull the wide tape toward the top of the iPad, applying constant force to release it from the antenna cable between it and the speaker.

Slide the tip of a spudger through the gap between the wide tape and the antenna cable, breaking the adhesive connecting the two.

Continue pulling the wide tape until it is no longer covering the antenna cable.

Step 101

Peel back and remove the wide tape from the iPad.

Peel back and remove the wide tape from the iPad.

Step 102

Step 103

Remove the following three screws securing the bottom left antenna to the rear case:
One 1.2 mm Phillips #00 screw.
One 1.1 mm Phillips #00 screw.
One 2.5 mm Phillips #00 screw.

Remove the following three screws securing the bottom left antenna to the rear case:

One 1.2 mm Phillips #00 screw.

One 1.1 mm Phillips #00 screw.

One 2.5 mm Phillips #00 screw.

Step 104

Use the flat end of a spudger to loosen the foam adhesive securing the lower left antenna to the left speaker.

Use the flat end of a spudger to loosen the foam adhesive securing the lower left antenna to the left speaker.

Step 105

Remove the antenna from the iPad.

Remove the antenna from the iPad.

Step 106

              GPS Antenna

Remove the following screws:
One 2.5 mm Phillips #00
Two 1.1 mm Phillips #00
One 1.2 mm Phillips #00

Remove the following screws:

One 2.5 mm Phillips #00

Two 1.1 mm Phillips #00

One 1.2 mm Phillips #00

Step 107

Use the flat end of a spudger to loosen the foam adhesive holding the antenna to the right speaker.

Use the flat end of a spudger to loosen the foam adhesive holding the antenna to the right speaker.

Step 108

              Speakers

Remove two 1.4 mm #00 Phillips screws securing the left and right speakers to the rear case.

Remove two 1.4 mm #00 Phillips screws securing the left and right speakers to the rear case.

Step 109

Insert the tip of a spudger into the gap between the left speaker and the bottom left side of the rear case.
Pry around the bottom of the speaker, sliding it out from its recess in the rear case.

Insert the tip of a spudger into the gap between the left speaker and the bottom left side of the rear case.

Pry around the bottom of the speaker, sliding it out from its recess in the rear case.

Step 110

Once enough of the speaker is exposed, grasp it and pull it away from its recess in the rear case.
Remove the left speaker from the iPad.

Once enough of the speaker is exposed, grasp it and pull it away from its recess in the rear case.

Remove the left speaker from the iPad.

Step 111

Use the tip of a spudger to slide the right speaker slightly toward the outside of the iPad.

Use the tip of a spudger to slide the right speaker slightly toward the outside of the iPad.

Step 112

Insert the tip of a spudger into the gap between the right speaker and the bottom right corner of the case.
Pry the speaker out from its recess in the rear case.

Insert the tip of a spudger into the gap between the right speaker and the bottom right corner of the case.

Pry the speaker out from its recess in the rear case.

Step 113

Once enough of the speaker is exposed, grasp it and pull it away from its slot in the rear case.
Remove the right speaker from the iPad.

Once enough of the speaker is exposed, grasp it and pull it away from its slot in the rear case.

Remove the right speaker from the iPad.

Step 114

Remove two 2.8 mm Phillips #00 screws from the base of the Lightning connector.

Remove two 2.8 mm Phillips #00 screws from the base of the Lightning connector.

Step 115

              Logic Board

Reheat the iOpener in the microwave for one minute.
Remember to be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair procedure. Wait at least two minutes before reheating the iOpener, and never microwave it for more than one minute.
Place the heated iOpener on the left side of the back of the iPad. Let it sit there for 90 seconds to soften the logic board adhesive.

Place the heated iOpener on the left side of the back of the iPad. Let it sit there for 90 seconds to soften the logic board adhesive.

Step 116

Slide the flat end of a spudger underneath the Lightning port cable, freeing it from the adhesive securing it to the rear case.

Slide the flat end of a spudger underneath the Lightning port cable, freeing it from the adhesive securing it to the rear case.

Step 117

Continue to carefully slide the spudger under the Lightning port cable nearest the logic board.
Be sure to work slowly; jerking the spudger may tear the Lightning cable from the logic board.

Continue to carefully slide the spudger under the Lightning port cable nearest the logic board.

Be sure to work slowly; jerking the spudger may tear the Lightning cable from the logic board.

Step 118

In the following steps you will be prying under the logic board. Be careful to pry evenly to avoid bending or stressing the logic board. If it is hard to insert the spudger, reheat and reapply the iOpener.
Gently insert the flat end of a spudger underneath the logic board nearest the front-facing camera. Slowly pry to free the corner from adhesive.

In the following steps you will be prying under the logic board. Be careful to pry evenly to avoid bending or stressing the logic board. If it is hard to insert the spudger, reheat and reapply the iOpener.

Gently insert the flat end of a spudger underneath the logic board nearest the front-facing camera. Slowly pry to free the corner from adhesive.

Step 119

Insert the flat end of a spudger underneath the center of the logic board. Slowly pry to free the section from adhesive.

Insert the flat end of a spudger underneath the center of the logic board. Slowly pry to free the section from adhesive.

Step 120

Insert the spudger underneath the logic board nearest the Lightning port cable and pry to free the corner.

Insert the spudger underneath the logic board nearest the Lightning port cable and pry to free the corner.

Step 121

Insert the spudger further under the logic board and slide along its length to detach the last of the adhesive.

Insert the spudger further under the logic board and slide along its length to detach the last of the adhesive.

Step 122

Lift the end of the logic board nearest the front-facing camera to ensure it is free of adhesive.
Again, be careful not to bend or stress the logic board—make certain that you have cleared all of the adhesive with the spudger.

Lift the end of the logic board nearest the front-facing camera to ensure it is free of adhesive.

Again, be careful not to bend or stress the logic board—make certain that you have cleared all of the adhesive with the spudger.

Step 123

Lift the logic board and Lightning cable assembly up and pull toward the top of the iPad to remove the Lightning connector from its housing.

Lift the logic board and Lightning cable assembly up and pull toward the top of the iPad to remove the Lightning connector from its housing.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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                    Sam Goldheart

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Tanman Nobel - May 5, 2017

Great guide! But on step 82 there is a plate that covers the plug, and the guide is missing a step to remove the plate.

Introduction#

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Introduction

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