Difficulty

Very difficult

Steps

30

Time Required

                          2 - 4 hours

Sections

3

  • Opening Procedure
  • 16 steps
  • Logic Board
  • 12 steps
  • Tristar
  • 2 steps

Flags

2

Member-Contributed Guide

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What you need

Step 1

              Prepare an iOpener
  • Strong adhesive holds the screen in place. In order to separate it, you’ll first need to heat and soften the adhesive using an iOpener, hair dryer, or heat gun.
  • You may need to reapply heat repeatedly throughout this process to prevent the adhesive from cooling and hardening.
  • Prepare an iOpener and place it on the bottom edge of the iPad’s screen for about two minutes.

Strong adhesive holds the screen in place. In order to separate it, you’ll first need to heat and soften the adhesive using an iOpener, hair dryer, or heat gun.

You may need to reapply heat repeatedly throughout this process to prevent the adhesive from cooling and hardening.

Prepare an iOpener and place it on the bottom edge of the iPad’s screen for about two minutes.

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Step 2

              Create an opening gap
  • If your iPad’s screen is badly cracked, wear skin and eye protection. Cover the screen with a smooth layer of clear packing tape to contain glass shards and help the suction cup adhere. Alternatively, use a strong piece of tape (such as duct tape) and fold it into a handle.
  • Place a suction cup next to the iPad’s home button and press down to create a seal.
  • To get the most leverage, place the suction cup as close to the edge as possible without going past the edge of the display.
  • Firmly pull up on the suction cup to create a small gap between the front panel and the rear case.
  • Don’t pull too hard, or you may shatter the glass. If necessary, apply more heat to further soften the adhesive.
  • Once you’ve opened a sufficient gap, insert an opening pick into the gap.

If your iPad’s screen is badly cracked, wear skin and eye protection. Cover the screen with a smooth layer of clear packing tape to contain glass shards and help the suction cup adhere. Alternatively, use a strong piece of tape (such as duct tape) and fold it into a handle.

Place a suction cup next to the iPad’s home button and press down to create a seal.

To get the most leverage, place the suction cup as close to the edge as possible without going past the edge of the display.

Firmly pull up on the suction cup to create a small gap between the front panel and the rear case.

Don’t pull too hard, or you may shatter the glass. If necessary, apply more heat to further soften the adhesive.

Once you’ve opened a sufficient gap, insert an opening pick into the gap.

Step 3

              Slice through the bottom adhesive
  • Slice through the adhesive under the screen by sliding the pick along the edge of the display, towards the bottom left corner.
  • Leave the pick in place temporarily to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

Slice through the adhesive under the screen by sliding the pick along the edge of the display, towards the bottom left corner.

Leave the pick in place temporarily to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

Step 4

              Slice through the left adhesive
  • Apply heat to the left edge of the iPad for about two minutes, or until it’s slightly too hot to touch comfortably.
  • If necessary, re-heat your iOpener for a few seconds or until it’s a bit too hot to touch. Be careful not to overheat the iOpener, or it may burst.
  • Insert a second opening pick at the bottom left corner of the iPad.
  • Slide the second opening pick along the left side of the display to separate the adhesive underneath.
  • Leave the opening pick inserted near the top left corner of the iPad to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

Apply heat to the left edge of the iPad for about two minutes, or until it’s slightly too hot to touch comfortably.

If necessary, re-heat your iOpener for a few seconds or until it’s a bit too hot to touch. Be careful not to overheat the iOpener, or it may burst.

Insert a second opening pick at the bottom left corner of the iPad.

Slide the second opening pick along the left side of the display to separate the adhesive underneath.

Leave the opening pick inserted near the top left corner of the iPad to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

Step 5

  • Apply heat to the top edge of the iPad for about two minutes, or until it’s slightly too hot to touch comfortably.

Apply heat to the top edge of the iPad for about two minutes, or until it’s slightly too hot to touch comfortably.

Step 6

  • Insert a third opening pick at the top left corner of the iPad.
  • Use the opening pick to cut the adhesive under the top edge of the iPad by sliding it to the top right corner.
  • The front-facing camera is located right in the center of the iPad’s top edge and can be damaged if the pick is inserted too far. Only insert the tip of the opening pick when cutting near the camera.

Insert a third opening pick at the top left corner of the iPad.

Use the opening pick to cut the adhesive under the top edge of the iPad by sliding it to the top right corner.

The front-facing camera is located right in the center of the iPad’s top edge and can be damaged if the pick is inserted too far. Only insert the tip of the opening pick when cutting near the camera.

Step 7

  • Apply heat to the final, right edge of the iPad for about two minutes, or until it’s slightly too hot to touch comfortably.
  • Insert a fourth opening pick at the top right corner of the iPad.
  • Slide the opening pick down to the bottom right corner to cut the adhesive.
  • Slide the opening pick around the bottom right corner—pausing to apply more heat if needed—and cut the remaining adhesive on the bottom edge, but stop before you reach the home button.

Apply heat to the final, right edge of the iPad for about two minutes, or until it’s slightly too hot to touch comfortably.

Insert a fourth opening pick at the top right corner of the iPad.

Slide the opening pick down to the bottom right corner to cut the adhesive.

Slide the opening pick around the bottom right corner—pausing to apply more heat if needed—and cut the remaining adhesive on the bottom edge, but stop before you reach the home button.

Step 8

  • Insert a fifth opening pick at the top of the iPad near (but not directly on) the front-facing camera.
  • Gently twist the pick to separate the display assembly from the iPad.
  • Don’t try to remove the display all the way yet! It is still connected to the iPad’s motherboard.
  • If needed, apply more heat and/or cut any remaining adhesive that prevents the display from separating.

Insert a fifth opening pick at the top of the iPad near (but not directly on) the front-facing camera.

Gently twist the pick to separate the display assembly from the iPad.

Don’t try to remove the display all the way yet! It is still connected to the iPad’s motherboard.

If needed, apply more heat and/or cut any remaining adhesive that prevents the display from separating.

Step 9

  • Lift the display assembly from its top edge and carefully slide it up (towards the front-facing camera and headphone jack), until the screw that secures the battery power connector is revealed at the bottom.
  • Don’t lift the display more than 70° or you may damage the attached ribbon cables.

Lift the display assembly from its top edge and carefully slide it up (towards the front-facing camera and headphone jack), until the screw that secures the battery power connector is revealed at the bottom.

Don’t lift the display more than 70° or you may damage the attached ribbon cables.

Step 10

  • Remove the 1.9 mm Phillips screw that secures the battery power connector.
  • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your device.

Remove the 1.9 mm Phillips screw that secures the battery power connector.

Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your device.

Step 11

              Battery connector information
  • These photos show what the battery connector looks like underneath the logic board. Use these photos as a reference while you safely disconnect the battery.
  • Notice that the battery connector has cantilever springs on the logic board that press against the battery contact pads. Since both the logic board and battery are glued down, you’ll need to slide something thin and flexible between the contact points to disconnect the battery.

These photos show what the battery connector looks like underneath the logic board. Use these photos as a reference while you safely disconnect the battery.

Notice that the battery connector has cantilever springs on the logic board that press against the battery contact pads. Since both the logic board and battery are glued down, you’ll need to slide something thin and flexible between the contact points to disconnect the battery.

Step 12

              Disconnect the battery
  • Be careful when you isolate the battery using a battery blocker. The battery contacts are easily bent or broken, resulting in irreversible damage.
  • To disconnect the battery, slide one prong of a battery blocker or the tip of an opening pick under the battery power connector to ensure the power circuit is interrupted.
  • Don’t push the battery blocker underneath the connector with excessive force. If you’re having trouble fitting the battery blocker underneath the logic board, you can try using a playing card to disconnect the battery instead.
  • The battery blocker or playing card ideally should slide under the logic board without encountering any blockages.
  • Leave the battery blocker in place as you work.

Be careful when you isolate the battery using a battery blocker. The battery contacts are easily bent or broken, resulting in irreversible damage.

To disconnect the battery, slide one prong of a battery blocker or the tip of an opening pick under the battery power connector to ensure the power circuit is interrupted.

Don’t push the battery blocker underneath the connector with excessive force. If you’re having trouble fitting the battery blocker underneath the logic board, you can try using a playing card to disconnect the battery instead.

The battery blocker or playing card ideally should slide under the logic board without encountering any blockages.

Leave the battery blocker in place as you work.

Step 13

  • Slowly lift the display from its top edge, being careful not to strain the attached ribbon cables.
  • Remove the two 1.3 mm Phillips screws securing the display connector cover bracket.
  • You may need to angle the driver slightly in order to avoid straining the ribbon cables.
  • Remove the display connector cover bracket.

Slowly lift the display from its top edge, being careful not to strain the attached ribbon cables.

Remove the two 1.3 mm Phillips screws securing the display connector cover bracket.

You may need to angle the driver slightly in order to avoid straining the ribbon cables.

Remove the display connector cover bracket.

Step 14

  • Use a spudger to disconnect the two visible display flex connectors by gently prying them straight up from their sockets.
  • To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.

Use a spudger to disconnect the two visible display flex connectors by gently prying them straight up from their sockets.

To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.

Step 15

  • Underneath, you’ll find two additional display cable connectors.
  • Use your spudger to gently pry them up and disconnect them.

Underneath, you’ll find two additional display cable connectors.

Use your spudger to gently pry them up and disconnect them.

Step 16

  • Remove the display assembly.
  • During reassembly, before installing a display, remove any remaining adhesive from the iPad, and clean the glued areas with high concentration isopropyl alcohol (90% or greater) and a lint-free cloth. This helps prep the iPad for fresh adhesive and ensures that it will bond properly.
  • If you plan to reinstall your existing display, remove any remaining adhesive from the back and clean the adhered areas with isopropyl alcohol.
  • Test your iPad’s functions and install pre-cut adhesive strips to the back of the display using our display adhesive application guide before sealing it up.

Remove the display assembly.

During reassembly, before installing a display, remove any remaining adhesive from the iPad, and clean the glued areas with high concentration isopropyl alcohol (90% or greater) and a lint-free cloth. This helps prep the iPad for fresh adhesive and ensures that it will bond properly.

If you plan to reinstall your existing display, remove any remaining adhesive from the back and clean the adhered areas with isopropyl alcohol.

Test your iPad’s functions and install pre-cut adhesive strips to the back of the display using our display adhesive application guide before sealing it up.

Step 17

              Logic Board
  • Remove the following 10 Phillips #000 screws.
  • Eight 1.3 mm screws
  • Two 2.3 mm screws

Remove the following 10 Phillips #000 screws.

Eight 1.3 mm screws

Two 2.3 mm screws

Step 18

  • Remove the logic board shield

Remove the logic board shield

Step 19

  • Disconnect the top left & right sensor array front panel connectors (FPC).

Disconnect the top left & right sensor array front panel connectors (FPC).

Step 20

  • Disconnect the front camera FPC’s.

Disconnect the front camera FPC’s.

Step 21

  • Disconnect the keyboard adapter FPC

Disconnect the keyboard adapter FPC

Step 22

  • Use tweezers to disconnect the antenna connectors.
  • Be sure to grab the cable by the metal shielding on the connector and pull straight up.

Use tweezers to disconnect the antenna connectors.

Be sure to grab the cable by the metal shielding on the connector and pull straight up.

Step 23

  • Gently pull up on the antenna coax cable to separate it from the logic board.

Gently pull up on the antenna coax cable to separate it from the logic board.

Step 24

  • Pull back on the tape covering the speaker FPC and disconnect the FPC.

Pull back on the tape covering the speaker FPC and disconnect the FPC.

Step 25

  • Repeat for the other speaker FPC

Repeat for the other speaker FPC

Step 26

              Lightning Connector
  • Remove the following Phillips #000 screws.
  • Two 2.4 mm screws
  • Two 1.7 mm screws

Remove the following Phillips #000 screws.

Two 2.4 mm screws

Two 1.7 mm screws

Step 27

  • Heat the back of the iPad to loosen the adhesive holding the logic board to the housing.
  • Optionally, you can use adhesive remover, such as acetone, to help loosen the adhesive. Be cautious to not get too much under the battery, as this can unintentionally weaken the battery adhesive.

Heat the back of the iPad to loosen the adhesive holding the logic board to the housing.

Optionally, you can use adhesive remover, such as acetone, to help loosen the adhesive. Be cautious to not get too much under the battery, as this can unintentionally weaken the battery adhesive.

Step 28

  • Carefully pry near the top of the logic board to release the adhesive.
  • Make certain that all of the connectors clear the logic board as you remove it.
  • Pull logic board with the lightning connector away from the main housing.

Carefully pry near the top of the logic board to release the adhesive.

Make certain that all of the connectors clear the logic board as you remove it.

Pull logic board with the lightning connector away from the main housing.

Step 29

              Tristar
  • Tristar is located near the bottom of the logic board near the lightning connector.
  • The chip is hidden under a metal shield that is soldered to the logic board.
  • The Tristar ID on this iPad is 610A3B. This is the same chip found on the iPhone 7/7+

Tristar is located near the bottom of the logic board near the lightning connector.

The chip is hidden under a metal shield that is soldered to the logic board.

The Tristar ID on this iPad is 610A3B. This is the same chip found on the iPhone 7/7+

Step 30

  • Remove the metal shield from the iPad.
  • Use max heat and max air on your hot air station for this step ONLY. Move the nozzle around the edge of the cover to flow the solder holding it to the logic board.
  • Lift straight up so that the logic board is slightly hovering from the desktop. The logic board will drop down once the solder flows.
  • Hot air is hot! Most hot air stations can reach 500ºC (900ºF). Wear the appropriate personal protective equipment.

Remove the metal shield from the iPad.

Use max heat and max air on your hot air station for this step ONLY. Move the nozzle around the edge of the cover to flow the solder holding it to the logic board.

Lift straight up so that the logic board is slightly hovering from the desktop. The logic board will drop down once the solder flows.

Hot air is hot! Most hot air stations can reach 500ºC (900ºF). Wear the appropriate personal protective equipment.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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                    Ben Meinhart

Member since: 08/02/2017

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                                            12 Guides authored

Leah - Sep 14, 2022

Reply

How do I remove and replace the lightening connector (charge port)